Even if I get the water temperature down with a new radiator, the radiator is the last device to get airflow from the grill. Which means my oil cooler is second in line behind the ac condenser and those temps are still extreme. So even if I replace just the radiator I don’t think it’s going to do a darn thing for the oil temperature, which is what I’m really concerned about.

for some reason I still don’t feel confident that if I change my AC condenser that my oil temps will get any lower. The oil cooler is mounted directly behind the AC condenser and if it’s not getting enough airflow with only one device in front of it I’m not sure what else could cause the issue (other than maybe the cam thing that was mentioned)

 

Ok something you need to consider is thermodynamics, and a liquid to liquid cooler is 32x more efficient than an air to liquid cooler. Your cooling system itself has had 2 major sources of heat addition removed, the oil cooler and egr cooler. You are gaining some of that heat back with the oil cooler in front of the radiator, but the system was designed to reject more heat than you are putting into it. I am not saying your oil temps will come down but your cooling has some issue that needs to be addressed.

 

+1 for above. Another way to look at it is that the air flow has to remove the heat from the oil with the BPD oil cooler ..... but it still needs to remove about the same heat from the coolant with the OEM oil cooler. Ultimately approximately the same heat needs to be removed by the air flow - in either situation. If desired coolant temps can not be maintained, then (as Motohead911 stated), your cooling system has issues.

IMO adding an electric "flex-a-lite" style fan might just restrict the air flow.

 

Makes sense. I’m going to buy an oem radiator and hope to have time to install this weekend. While the radiator is out I’ll run the degreaser and water through the intercooler (from engine side out towards grill)

what are your thoughts about replacing the fan clutch while I’m in there or would that just be a waste?

 

If you are going to clean your ac condenser, do yourself a favor and a home improvement store and get ac coil cleaner. It will work much better than degreaser. A word of caution, don't get on painted surfaces.

 

Lets go back to the first post.

Not the same motor, but the same engineering and their guidelines. More like comparing an orange to a tangerine, probably close enough.

First, I'm an OE guy. I didn't use to be until I started to work in the auto industry, which showed me the folly of the aftermarket can engineer things better. And if it wasn't my own history transformation, half of my work was for the OE side of the business and the other for the aftermarket side. So my perspective is tainted.

BD's idea was to take the oil thermal exchange and put it in the realm of air rather than the coolant, eliminating the problem of poor coolant maintenance. They may have viewed it as the same thermal energy exchange, and you can upsize the oil to air cooler to make that transition, but they don't have the resources to test under all conditions. Secondarily, while they may have seen this as the same thermal energy hitting the fan, I'm not sure they took into account the airflow resistance of adding another layer to the exchange stack. You reduce the flow velocity at the coolant radiator, you get less cooling.

And in your situation, an aftermarket radiator, you probably even have a tougher situation.

Honestly, I don't follow the threads about this modification; it's a concept I would not even try. But if I was going to design something like this, I would want the results to be the same as your friend's truck, 194/199 under those conditions. If BD is saying 220-230º oil is within parameters because it fixes the clog issue, and it's OK to have hotter coolant, my opinion it's a bad design. Too much engineering and testing went into getting a 194/199 similar balance. They chomped down on too big a bone.

I would do as you said, install an OE radiator to see if that can get the coolant temp down. Getting the coolant down should also get the oil temp down, and at that point, you may be in an acceptable range. Maybe that's how it was back-engineered (should have been). If that doesn't cool to the point you are comfortable, then go to the more aggressive fan setup, be that snowplow or the 7.3 version. Another thing that if you want to engage the fan earlier then it normally is commanded is you can set up for the manual grounding of the circuit, but do it with a relay and a thermal controller that works off the radiator or coolant temp. I actually have that setup that was to be used on a family member Jeep that went away.

You are where you are, you just to work in steps to accommodate that extra layer in the exchange stack.

And I agree, get the coil cleaner from HD or Lowes, they work well, but it won't be a major change if dirty.


Sorry if it seems like we are piling on.

 

I hear what you are saying, but I can't believe that BPD didn't consider the restriction aspect of their oil cooler on the air flow. Lots of people (long-time 6.0L internet folks) have seen low oil and coolant temps when towing heavy loads in hot summer conditions with their BPD oil cooler. Granted, I am basing my perspective on "hearsay".

 

Right, and we saw that with the comments that were posted above that showed others had normal temps with the bpd coolers. Before the oil cooler I used to hit 240 oil towing.

it’s hard to say when things went south. I’ve only had my trailer for two years and lots of mods before I had it. I used to tow a buddies trailer but I didn’t always have a way to monitor temps .

At one point I didn’t find that the fan was not kicking in soon enough and I discovered it was the custom tune I had that wouldn’t let it kick in. When I went to the tow time that came with the sct I saw a difference in when the fan would come on.

looking at my truck I can see my winch is blocking air flow on the lower portion too. I didn’t realize this until I removed the grill today. Hard to see in the photo but the winch blocks that entire center section to the left and right of the roller fair lead

 

Mark - Yeah, I know I’m going off the deep end. My only excuse is being sensitized to too much aftermarket crap.

In the earlier post I did quote someone with good temps. I’m really hoping changing his coolant radiator gets him closer to heaven. But there are issues still noted by others. I’ve also have seen people after spending money justify a compromise.

I can’t comprehend that adding another cooler in front of the radiator, on top of the condenser, power steering cooler and trans cooler would not affect flow through. Sign me up for the flat earth society.

 

Yep, winch ain’t helping. Neither does an LED lightbar for those that install them.

 

Totally understand, believe me. The large replacement bumper I put on a year ago is why I put on the snow plow clutch.

 

BigRed, with a stock radiator and if you don't need the winch all the time you might get back to stock like temps and I can delete my ranting above.

I'll quote my post, #66.

I would do as you said, install an OE radiator to see if that can get the coolant temp down. Getting the coolant down should also get the oil temp down, and at that point, you may be in an acceptable range. Maybe that's how it was back-engineered (should have been). If that doesn't cool to the point you are comfortable, then go to the more aggressive fan setup, be that snowplow or the 7.3 version. Another thing that if you want to engage the fan earlier then it normally is commanded is you can set up for the manual grounding of the circuit, but do it with a relay and a thermal controller that works off the radiator or coolant temp. I actually have that setup that was to be used on a family member Jeep that went away.

 

I’m in the back country/middle of nowhere far too often to take the winch off, although 99% of the time it saves others because I’m usually good at judging what I can go through.

The new ford tremor will pretty much be the exact config as my truck and will have a factory warn winch option just like mine too. Now if I can just scrounge up 80k I’ll have a truck that was designed from factory with every mod I’ve done over the last ten years haha.

My truck: custom turbo, tunes, injectors, headstuds , regulated return
tremor: most likely has more hp and torque doing it with better fuel mileage , normal cooling temps and ten speed transmission

my truck: upgraded to 4:30 gears, Detroit trutrac front and rear and lift to fit 35 inch tires
tremor: factory rear locker, front limited slip, 35 inch tires and gearing to match

my truck. Upgraded to 185 amp alternator
tremor: stock 220 with option for higher output...and the list goes on


if I had just saved my money the last ten years I could afford a tremor today and not be chasing my tail

 

Been there, the same conclusion. I spent way too much on Mustang and motorcycle upgrades.

 

So if you need the winch that partially blocks airflow, then if it was me I'd "upgrade" to a stock radiator and do an upgrade to the fan to get more airflow to make up for the winch restriction, be that snowplow or the 7.3 non-electiric version.

Or install the Blue Wire mod off a temperature controlled relay, the relay ground ign the fan instead.

Here is a video setting that up, but I would not use a Flex-a-lite.

You Tube

A kit but with a 1/8" NPT temperature sensor.

https://www.mishimoto.com/adjustable...oller-kit.html

Here is an example of what I was going to do with the Jeep, but I set it up with BMW/Volvo and the like, but you don't need or will use a two speed.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...tric_fan.shtml

The problem with most of the aftermarket kits is they fail in short order.