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  #136  
Old 07-12-2020, 01:35 PM
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So how far back are you going? Just removing the Hyperchip and running stock tune?
 
  #137  
Old 07-12-2020, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
So how far back are you going? Just removing the Hyperchip and running stock tune?
He's going so far back he's buying an OBS.
 
  #138  
Old 07-12-2020, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
So how far back are you going? Just removing the Hyperchip and running stock tune?
I was referring to the wastegate, redline, and stock tune, and not trying WOT runs without air filter, or with MAP disconnected, as suggested by SSJ, which I had actually contemplated until my internal voice of reason kicked in. No disrespect intended.

I did extensive mods to my 2 stroke jetski but one at a time. Eventually I reached a point of unreliability which wasn’t fun. Went back one step and now I ride all day long with a smile on my face.

Right now I’m glad I didn’t do the FRX, fuel lines, HPOP lines, and HPX. I’ve seen people spend thousands on race bikes at winter tear down but then couldn’t ever get it to run good after since they couldn’t efficiently backtrack to find the cause of the effect.

I will tighten the actuator to achieve higher boost level, but will allow it to function as per stock/ safe design.

In my first post of this thread “ reliability and longevity are the key here”. No cel is my first goal, soft or hard codes. IMHO that yellow light shouldn’t come on until something is actually wrong. Once I achieve that I will move forward with a plan.
 
  #139  
Old 07-12-2020, 05:38 PM
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Sometimes you have to take certain steps in a troubleshooting process that are uncommon and temporary to achieve the goal of resolving the issue.

Simple tasks such as taking a short 2 minute drive with the air filter off would tell you for a fact whether your suspected air supply issue is intake related or post turbo related. When troubleshooting a hydroboost issue, I had to unplug the VSS, ABS module and perform steps that are fairly uncommon and caused a CEL. Through those steps, I arrived at the problem and resolved the problem.

That is just one quick example.

There are many, many pinpoint tests in the Ford Service Manual that lead the technician down a path to resolving the issue. Although, your intentions of getting the truck to 100% first are honorable, you may not get there by making decisions that would steer you away from the finish line.

In my signature, it says "built for reliability, longevity and efficiency". That is what I have done since the day I bought this truck. Sometimes I learned the hard way, sometimes I learned the easy way. I use my truck to tow 12, 000 lbs of 5th wheel cross country. It needs to be there when I need it.

Things will break, things will go screwy...

Although, until they go sideways I will enjoy 13.5 MPG's will towing, 2000 RPM at 65 MPH on cruise control even up grades. This is all on 255,000 mile OEM AD injectors.

Do as you wish with your truck, and no offense taken by anyone here. If you look above in the thread, I mentioned talking to Dan K as being a great course of action and I still feel that way. Just know that sometimes you have to step outside the box in order to fortify the walls and make that box a hard concrete target instead of a wet sopping piece of cardboard.
 
  #140  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:30 PM
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I feel like a good tuner that will prevent the SES will be your ultimate solution. But step through it as you feel comfortable. This is your truck and you can handle it any way you please.

I must say our mindsets are slightly different (which is completely ok) as a soft code doesn’t bother me in the least. The EBPV and AIH have been off my truck for 9 years and of course have soft codes hiding in there when pulled. They don’t impact function and I understand why it has the code so I just know to ignore those and it doesn’t bother me at all.

I do seem to want to squeeze every bit of performance out of my truck WHILE keeping the it reliable.

Now I also don’t particularly want the SES coming on every time I lay into the throttle (overboost but no defueling) like it did with one tuner I had.

We are the same in the idea of I want a rock solid performer that will not leave me stranded, and the correct common issue parts on hand to get me moving again if need be.

I’m interested to follow along on your journey and see where you end up.
 
  #141  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:32 PM
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My first course of action tomorrow is to talk with Dan.

I currently have $175.00 earmarked for the new wastegate actuator. Thankfully I didn’t have to pay up front for a local franchise shop to bring one in from their other shop.

Depending on what Dan has to say will steer my direction.

Maybe I’m just having a knee jerk reaction and overthinking this. I dunno. One thing I do know is I never want to see this again.

Thanks to all for listening to me.



This was the trailers fault not the truck, but none the less.
 
  #142  
Old 07-12-2020, 07:52 PM
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Not gonna hurt my feelings!!

I’ll step back if I didn’t already and say those tunes SUCK and that is the reason for high EGT and overboost code.

If thats all youre trying to fix, throw that POS programmer in the trash. I’m certain Dan can hook you up with tunes 1000% better than the garbage you have now.

Did I mention the WG actuator has NOTHING to do with your symptoms? If so, I probably said to crank the actuator adjustment all the way down and just delete the red and green hoses. This system does nothing to increase longevity or reliability.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I just did another WG disable yesterday. I’ve done DOZENS like this over the years. At least a few with over 100k miles on them now.



 
  #143  
Old 07-13-2020, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Not gonna hurt my feelings!!

I’ll step back if I didn’t already and say those tunes SUCK and that is the reason for high EGT and overboost code.

If thats all youre trying to fix, throw that POS programmer in the trash. I’m certain Dan can hook you up with tunes 1000% better than the garbage you have now.

Did I mention the WG actuator has NOTHING to do with your symptoms? If so, I probably said to crank the actuator adjustment all the way down and just delete the red and green hoses. This system does nothing to increase longevity or reliability.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Yup, you’ve said all this before. I’ve been listening.

Anybody want to buy a hypertech???? Cheap... works as described... non vin locked... LOL.

Maybe I’ll put it on CL and see if anybody bites.
 
  #144  
Old 07-13-2020, 07:07 PM
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Went and talked with SDK today. Dan wasn’t there but spoke with one of his mechanics.

No surprise at the dump the Hypertech. Said sometimes they can even fry the pcm.

They never disconnect wastegate and don’t recommend it on a 20 year old MST. What a customer does once they leave their shop is up to them.

However their tunes do limit input to MAP stopping the P1249 and defuelling. Also address P0238- map circuit high input, and P0478 excessive back pressure condition.

They had a brand new wastegate laying on the bench given to them on a promo which they put into my hands. Saved me $175.00 and put me that much closer to a Hydra.

So for now, tighten wastegate actuator to achieve higher boost but below defuelling and dump the crap tune. Hutch and Harpoon.

To be continued... Next up is going through the drivetrain.

Again, TO ALL, thanks for all the input and listening to me verbalize my thoughts.
 
  #145  
Old 07-13-2020, 07:22 PM
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Wow, what a great experience you had!

I have heard good things about SDK and am glad to hear your experience was good. DP Tuner is 45 minutes from me, but my experiences with them have been crap. PHP is 1 hour from me, but they are out if the customer drive up tuning now. PHP is open for sales and advice though, so it is good to have them close if needed.

Keep us updated and we all wish you the best of luck in your journey.
 
  #146  
Old 07-13-2020, 07:29 PM
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Wait, whoa, what??? You were going to pay $175 for a wastegate? Just the controller? I think I’d weld it shut before paying that.
 
  #147  
Old 07-13-2020, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Wait, whoa, what??? You were going to pay $175 for a wastegate? Just the controller? I think I’d weld it shut before paying that.

Just for kicks and giggles try calling ford tomorrow and asking them how much.

My jaw hit the floor!!!
 
  #148  
Old 07-13-2020, 08:41 PM
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Now I wonder what Dan does with WG controller tuning wise???

‘Stock’ tune allows WG to slowly open (PWM signal) until max allowable Boost is attained where it is fully open. Tuning controls fuel in part using boost. Limiting boost limits fuel delivery. This is all important for stock tuning to keep the engine within safe and legal (EPA) parameters.

I have never seen an aftermarket tune that limits boost. I can’t think of a good reason to limit boost.

Here is a stock turbo with 4+4 compressor wheel kissing 38psi.

This truck has 175/30’s and weighs 10k lbs. It SCOOTS!!


 
  #149  
Old 07-13-2020, 08:49 PM
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Vans (E-series) with 7.3 PSD have no WG.

I beat my stock unmolested turbo into making +30psi for 70k miles. It had no sign of wear after that. Then I’ve modded literally dozens of trucks with tunes, stock turbo and WG disabled. Many have logged 100k miles or more. No issues.

Ill stop beating the dead horse now. Thanks for putting up with me.
 
  #150  
Old 07-13-2020, 09:36 PM
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I may have my terminology wrong, or the mechanic was dummying it down for the white collar looking 50 year old man, probably a bit of both.

It was a reader’s digest version as I slipped over there during lunch break.
 


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