Thanks for everyones help. Power steering question and more..
#1
Thanks for everyones help. Power steering question and more..
Here is my story. I posted this in the new member section. I have been using this forum for info over the past month.
About a month ago I bought a 1975 F100 Custom. 360 Auto 2x4 Its in very nice condition. Its a Nevada vehicle, so there isn't much rust. Proof is on the title of previous title state.
I drive hot shot and found it in a guys barn about 6 weeks ago. He said he only uses it to go get his mail. I asked to buy it and he said sure. The man was in his 80's and had several other vehicles and didn't need it.
Ive been looking for a pick up cheap for a few years... all I ever find is rusted out junkers... the nice trucks are over 15k. Originally I figured I could use the F100 as a general use pick up, and it would make a good one for that.
Then I got it home, did some research on this forum and realized that I got a nice classic truck and should be treated as such. I might use it to go get a few sheets of plywood and bags of mulch, but that's about it.
The things I have done so far,
Changed all fluids.
Cleaned and waxed. Paint isnt original, but its in OK shape.
Adjusted carb and timed. There was a pretty new distributor on it. It was probably farmer timed by hand.
Ignition wiring was marginal at best, so I replaced that. I made my own harness.
I need to get,
Tires. Not sure what kind I should get... A/T or G/T?
Shocks
Things I would get in the future.
Headers
Duals or side pipes. Always wanted a vehicle with side pipes.
================================================== ======================
When I got the truck the power steering fluid leaked from the fittings that go into the box. It drips out pretty fast. I tightened the two fittings and it still leaked.
I took them out, cleaned and put teflon tape on, then tightened. It still leaks. A whole lot less, but its weeping out. I can live with it, but is there some trick?
It has a C6 trans. The fluid was pretty nice looking and its shifts OK. I didnt change it. Should I change it and put in a filter to make sure its type F? The reason I suspect its correct is the previous owner had all Ford vehicles, including another truck like this, a 1940's hot rod, a cobra kit, and a Galaxie.... I figured he would know to put type F in.
Tires. Not sure what kind I should get... A/T or G/T? I would like to retain the stock rims and moons.. The truck is stock.. probably leave it that way..... or is there a reason I should get wider tires and rims besides looks. I'd hate to buy 235/75-15 tires and find out that it would be better served with some other size.
About a month ago I bought a 1975 F100 Custom. 360 Auto 2x4 Its in very nice condition. Its a Nevada vehicle, so there isn't much rust. Proof is on the title of previous title state.
I drive hot shot and found it in a guys barn about 6 weeks ago. He said he only uses it to go get his mail. I asked to buy it and he said sure. The man was in his 80's and had several other vehicles and didn't need it.
Ive been looking for a pick up cheap for a few years... all I ever find is rusted out junkers... the nice trucks are over 15k. Originally I figured I could use the F100 as a general use pick up, and it would make a good one for that.
Then I got it home, did some research on this forum and realized that I got a nice classic truck and should be treated as such. I might use it to go get a few sheets of plywood and bags of mulch, but that's about it.
The things I have done so far,
Changed all fluids.
Cleaned and waxed. Paint isnt original, but its in OK shape.
Adjusted carb and timed. There was a pretty new distributor on it. It was probably farmer timed by hand.
Ignition wiring was marginal at best, so I replaced that. I made my own harness.
I need to get,
Tires. Not sure what kind I should get... A/T or G/T?
Shocks
Things I would get in the future.
Headers
Duals or side pipes. Always wanted a vehicle with side pipes.
================================================== ======================
When I got the truck the power steering fluid leaked from the fittings that go into the box. It drips out pretty fast. I tightened the two fittings and it still leaked.
I took them out, cleaned and put teflon tape on, then tightened. It still leaks. A whole lot less, but its weeping out. I can live with it, but is there some trick?
It has a C6 trans. The fluid was pretty nice looking and its shifts OK. I didnt change it. Should I change it and put in a filter to make sure its type F? The reason I suspect its correct is the previous owner had all Ford vehicles, including another truck like this, a 1940's hot rod, a cobra kit, and a Galaxie.... I figured he would know to put type F in.
Tires. Not sure what kind I should get... A/T or G/T? I would like to retain the stock rims and moons.. The truck is stock.. probably leave it that way..... or is there a reason I should get wider tires and rims besides looks. I'd hate to buy 235/75-15 tires and find out that it would be better served with some other size.
#2
When I got the truck the power steering fluid leaked from the fittings that go into the box. It drips out pretty fast. I tightened the two fittings and it still leaked.I took them out, cleaned and put teflon tape on, then tightened. It still leaks. A whole lot less, but its weeping out. I can live with it, but is there some trick?
Now to your leak. Teflon tape won't do anything. The external threads have nothing to do with sealing. First, remove the lines and look at flare on the ends of the lines. Check for any damage, dings, grooves, deep scratches or dirt in the seating area of the flare. Dirt you can clean off, with damage/wear you'll need to replace the line. If all that looks good, you'll need to check the seats in the steering box itself. That's where the sealing actually takes place. The taper of the flare on the hose mates with the taper on the seat in the box forming a leak proof seal. This is a metal to metal seal so everything needs to be good.
If the seats are damaged, they can be replaced. They're brass and a light press fit in the casting. Not really too difficult to replace.
The smaller 5/16" line is the pressure line and more than likely that's the one that's leaking: Seat, 5/16" tube P/N 374309-S
The larger 3/8" is return: Seat, 3/8" P/N 374480-S.
P/N 374309-S:
Larry Miller Parts Warehouse, Salt Lake City, UT has 3 (801) 488-1700 XT 2708
P/N 374480-S
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 70 (800) 543-4959
#4
Congratulations on your find, sounds nice...PICTURES, PICTURES!!!!
Now to your leak. Teflon tape won't do anything. The external threads have nothing to do with sealing. First, remove the lines and look at flare on the ends of the lines. Check for any damage, dings, grooves, deep scratches or dirt in the seating area of the flare. Dirt you can clean off, with damage/wear you'll need to replace the line. If all that looks good, you'll need to check the seats in the steering box itself. That's where the sealing actually takes place. The taper of the flare on the hose mates with the taper on the seat in the box forming a leak proof seal. This is a metal to metal seal so everything needs to be good.
If the seats are damaged, they can be replaced. They're brass and a light press fit in the casting. Not really too difficult to replace.
The smaller 5/16" line is the pressure line and more than likely that's the one that's leaking: Seat, 5/16" tube P/N 374309-S
The larger 3/8" is return: Seat, 3/8" P/N 374480-S.
P/N 374309-S:
Larry Miller Parts Warehouse, Salt Lake City, UT has 3 (801) 488-1700 XT 2708
P/N 374480-S
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 70 (800) 543-4959
Now to your leak. Teflon tape won't do anything. The external threads have nothing to do with sealing. First, remove the lines and look at flare on the ends of the lines. Check for any damage, dings, grooves, deep scratches or dirt in the seating area of the flare. Dirt you can clean off, with damage/wear you'll need to replace the line. If all that looks good, you'll need to check the seats in the steering box itself. That's where the sealing actually takes place. The taper of the flare on the hose mates with the taper on the seat in the box forming a leak proof seal. This is a metal to metal seal so everything needs to be good.
If the seats are damaged, they can be replaced. They're brass and a light press fit in the casting. Not really too difficult to replace.
The smaller 5/16" line is the pressure line and more than likely that's the one that's leaking: Seat, 5/16" tube P/N 374309-S
The larger 3/8" is return: Seat, 3/8" P/N 374480-S.
P/N 374309-S:
Larry Miller Parts Warehouse, Salt Lake City, UT has 3 (801) 488-1700 XT 2708
P/N 374480-S
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 70 (800) 543-4959
Thanks for the advice.
#5
Messed with wiring today. Replaced both relays for signals and 4 ways. It needs new front turn sockets.
greased all the fittings.
Didnt mess with the power steering fittings...
Checked brakes. Rotors and pads are pretty new... rear shoes are decent.
Took pictures
I think this grill is from a different year truck.
greased all the fittings.
Didnt mess with the power steering fittings...
Checked brakes. Rotors and pads are pretty new... rear shoes are decent.
Took pictures
I think this grill is from a different year truck.
#6
Messed with wiring today. Replaced both relays for signals and 4 ways.
It needs new front turn sockets.
See below for the socket applications. Notice the captions I added for these two pics.
Grille frame is the same 1973/77. 1973/75's use different plastic grille inserts than 1976/77.^
Steering wheel is from a 1978/79, it's possible the column has also been swapped.
It needs new front turn sockets.
See below for the socket applications. Notice the captions I added for these two pics.
Grille frame is the same 1973/77. 1973/75's use different plastic grille inserts than 1976/77.^
Steering wheel is from a 1978/79, it's possible the column has also been swapped.
1971/73 & 1976 Pinto // 1973 Mustang & Torino // 1974 F100/350 from serial number T80,001 // 1975/78 LTD // 1975/79 F100/350 // 1975/91 Econoline // 1978/79 Bronco.
#7
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#8
Thanks.
I do feel lucky. I paid 2500. I feel that's alot less than its worth.
I ended up getting goodyear wrangler all terrain tires for a really good price. 65 each shipped. So that's what I'm going to run. 235 75 r15.
#11
#12
As far as shifting is concerned I wouldn't know what it is supposed to feel like. Ive only owned manuals and my wifes car is a CVT. The last regular auto transmission I drove would have my parents cars 30 years ago.
I guess when it slips, its shot.
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Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
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01-06-2020 05:54 AM