This is what the connections at the tank look like on my 2002. I believe it’s different than earlier models

 

Yep. Turned out to be the feed line from the sender that was sucking air. Got some 3/8” 30r9 hooked in there and ran it up to a 3/8 to 3/8 barb where i was able to slide my 5/16 line over the 3/8 line. Clamp on pump outlet also needed a little tightening. Minimal if no bubbles now….

 

No problems, just the fact that it probably wasn’t needed in my case and now dropping the tank will include dealing with a (stuck) rubber hose.

IIRC the guide I followed also had me change the return line to rubber hose which is 100% unnecessary (although I’m grateful for the fella doing a write up for me to follow).

Glad you got your’s fixed up with the rubber hose!

 

I forget did you cut off the vent tube in the tank? If not, now is the time.

 

I have a 97 so only the valley fuel pump. Would I still follow this procedure and add the filter on the frame at the rear? Also it’s a e series. So would it be 3/8 or the 5/16 line I would need?

Even longer shot @SkySkiJason you still have that aluminum tubing?

Thanks for the post! (I’m late lol)

 

I’ve forgotten what the ‘97 and older fuel pickup looks like.... I wear a helmet now, but the damage is already done.

Plenty of tubing pieces, but very limited opportunities for me to put them in the mail lately...

 

When doing this I have my body removed and cleaning things up. Curious if anyone has run a new hard line. Is it smart to route behind crossmember gussets? Seems more protected.

Disadvantages-
-harder to service,
​​​​​​. -debris buildup, corrosion?
Any opinions? Brake line here is bad ugly, how yours go?

Why fuel lines bend outside frame rail?

 

I ran fuel injection hose, the good stuff, mega bucks per inch

 

@nickmac30 A little confused, but I'm easily confused.
You ran 3/8 hose from the tank to...? Don't understand what you mean by sliding 5/16 hose over the 3/8" line.

 

@In Deep welcome to FTE.

I assume the factory lines route as such because it’s easier on the production line compared to snaking through the hole. Purely a guess though.

Why are you changing, are your original fuel lines bad? Those usually hold up pretty well.

 

My lines are fine i guess, maybe no reason to create extra work. I do plan to off road through some brush and small trees though. Thought I should make it more off roadey.

 

@In Deep


The frame is manufactured in a separate operation from the installation of the fuel lines.

Having auto workers, or even robots, try to thread fixed length hard metal fuel and brake lines into the gaps between the frame cross member flange gussets and the frame web... is simply not feasible. Especially while the auto worker has his cellphone to his ear arguing with his girlfriend at the top of his lungs throughout the shift while he is trying to install dashboards. In the meantime, his wife is at home taking care of the baby. Anyways... not gonna happen.

Service replacements in the field (if parts were available, and they are not) are better facilitated by the lines being designed to apply onto the frame, rather than being carefully threaded into and through the frame. An additional design factor is maintaining fuel line integrity in the event of a collision.

Your hard brake line that is all catawampus has been repaired in the field. The threaded brake line connection visible in your photo is not a factory installation. The hard line material aft of that connection is not OEM brake line material.

This is what that brake line should look like as installed during production, near that cross member, in an F-550 of your vintage: