And 2 minutes after reading Davey’s post..........

In my defence. I stopped when I knew something wasn’t right....... I’m glad I didn’t keep cranking on it.











Let’s never speak of this again. But I do own a nicely cupped washer.....

———————————

No ring ridge at all that I feel, none. I’m really curious what the bearings look like, and the cam? We’ll see where I get with it as far rebuild. I’d still like the machine shop to clean in all up in their hot tank, have a good look over everything, go through the heads, and magnaflux everything for me.


Thank you Davey.

Edit: I should thank John too. He asked me last night if i removed the bolt... "Yup, Bolt is out...." ... I digress. everything went smooth to day. Ill post anohter up date shortly.

 

Glad I could help!

I don't know how big your budget is on the motor. If the cam lobes match the scoring on the roller lifters, you'll probably end up replacing both. I know there are some roller cams available that are a slight upgrade from stock that will still work with your computer.

If there's no ridge, you should be able to get away with honing the cylinders and not a full over-bore if the rest of the cylinder looks good. Fingers crossed on that I suppose.

 

I wouldn’t put either of those parts pack in with ridges or groves on them. There are a couple camshafts that Conanski recommends. The stock roller that you have and then 2-3 more each a little more aggressive. I don’t remember the part numbers off the top of my head but you should be able to find them in a quick search.

Agree here too. No wear ridge so you should be able to use a ball hone just to clean up the bores.

 

I will probably do this update in a couple of parts. I’ll try to show as many pics as I can. Remember, I’m not a engine guru by any means.

I’m using the Haynes manual and the Ford factory manual. Pretty much used the Haynes for disassemble, no issues with that. I went in a slightly different order, but not much - I found it much easier to remove the pan first, then the timing chain cover. Haynes lays everything out pretty nicely imho. The factory manual, is good too, but it seems to have you jumping around to different sections all the time, and when it’s on a PDF, it’s a pain.

My dial indicator did not show up in time. So the only measurement I could not do was the cam shaft end play. I figured I could do it when I install it, and worst case scenario I have to order and wait for a new thrust plate. New cam/lifters is probably coming too...

Crankshaft and connecting rod measurements I was able to do with with my feeler gauges. No issues there, everything was within the specs in the Haynes manual.

The journals and cylinders I’ll have the machinist measure for me. Hopefully no issues.

I don’t know the full history of the oil used or Mtce. The previous owner used Castrol 5/30 with zinc additive (he thought, as did I that it had flat tappet). I switched over to Rotella T6 5/40 a couple of years ago. (I have several cases of it, I figured I may as well start using it up).


Part 1.

Cam,

Yes, there are marks on the lobes. Not on all the lobes, but a few of them. A couple you can slightly feel. Same with the lifters. The machinist I’m using asked me to bring it in and let him have a look see. I did not measure anything on the cam yet, I’ll wait to see. I’ll start looking into a new cam and lifters...















Cam bearings. IMHO, They do not look the best. As if they have baked on oil/carbon. I don’t know if it’s running hot on the bearings, not hot enough, I would have thought they would be fairly clean. Any I’ve done in the past, were simply silver, one was severely cracked and chipped from a very hard worked engine, worn in, but not blackened like this one.






I didn’t notice what looks like a crack until I saw this picture...




Contd...

 

Part 2.

Pistons, rings, connecting rod bearings and cyl bores: The pistons all look good to me. I don’t see any scoring on the skirts, the rings were all intact and loose, not stuck and carbonned or gummed up. They all came out realitively easily, not tapping. They needed to be pushed out, but did not hang up on anything - easily done by hand.

The cylinder bores, they are all glazed up a bit, some cross hatching still left. On a few of them after cleaning them up a bit more prior to pushing the pistons through, I could feel a slight ridge, very slight, cant catch your finger nail on it. I spoke to the machinist, he said it was probably nothing to worry about, carry on. Other than a few spots of corrosion, they don’t ‘look’ to bad. See what he says when he measures them.

Rings, even the rings don’t look too bad. I forgot to check their alignment on the two low cylinders.

CR bearings. They look worn. See pics.






















Cylinder bores.

The bottom of them have some gummed up carbon built up, that’s not corrosion.









Contd....

 

Part 3

Crankshaft and bearings. The bearings look as I would have guessed, they have wear on them. The crankshaft itself, has some definite wear on it. Again, you can feel it with your thumbnail. How much is too much, I don’t know. I’ll wait to see what the machinist says. He can polish it, but can not grind them. So, hopefully it’s not that bad. Mostly I can feel it a bit on the CR journals, the mains didn’t feel too bad at all.

















Cont'd..

 

Part 4

Heres just a few over all pictures. I didn’t think it would be this spread out. But too keep everything organized, it took up a lot more room than I thought it would.















I’ll take a bit of time this evening or tomorrow to clean things up a bit more, and the drop everything off at the machine shop and wait to hear back.

 

One more note to make:

Ive read in a couple threads on here about painting the block, and whether the mating surface of the block to the transmission is painted, or should be painted, so you don’t have an insulator between the E4od and engine. I don’t know either way about it, but that makes sense to me.

But as far as I know, this engine is as it left the factory - I doubt it’s ever been out. See pics. It looks to me that was painted.

 

No shortage of photographic evidence today!

It was definitely time for bearings all around in the motor. That's not the first time I've seen cracked cam bearings. Probably caught that just in time before it became a real problem. That baked on oil residue is pretty typical.

Your pistons and cylinder bores both look really good. I would not be at all afraid to just put a hone on those and proceed. Still a lot of cross hatching in them.

That oil cooler thing that screws into the oil filter housing, you can omit that and use a regular FL1A filter if you wanted to, and then swap to a normal lower radiator hose. I eliminate those on my motors. One less thing to fail.

Keep up the good work!

 

Thank you Davey, My4fordtrucks, much appreciated!

I thought about eliminating the oil cooler when I read up on what it was, but I already have the hoses! I’ve been buying parts I know I need as I go so they are here and ready when I need them. I didn’t realize at the time you could remove/eliminate it.

I prefer not to re use this cam and lifters either. I started looking into cams again today. I’ll probably get another thread going in the engine section at some point to sort it out. I did find some of the threads where Conanski has mentioned them, I’ll keep reading up on it first. I did try emailing comp cams for recommendations. Once I get everything cleaned up and into the machine shop, I’ll look into it more.

 

Whatever Conanski recommended is what I'd go with. He seems to have the speed density compatible cams memorized.

It probably won't hurt anything to keep using the cooler, I thought if you hadn't already bought the hoses, it would be cheaper for you to eliminate it. Plus, I know you're trying to eliminate possible failure points.

 

Just about to drop off the parts at the machine shop this morning, but thought I’d post this. That little needle scaler I bought for $50 off Amazon has turned out to be a really handy little tool. The block and heads were really covered in rust. I forgot to get good close up pics before, but took a couple as I was going. The block looks pretty mottled once you get the rust removed, I didn’t realize how much rust was really on there. It took quite the effort to remove it too.

Edit - This is the only thing I question at this point, reusing this block. I am hoping it was not a mistake. hindsight being 20/20, I would find another block to use, and heads. Read on about heads...

 

So, I got the call from my machinist today - He says everything is good to re use. Hot tanked everything, magnafluxed everything, looked over everything, no major issues. That’s a relief.

The valves/guides are ok, need grinding on the valves and seats. The heads and block need to be milled, not much. 3 thou on the heads - slightly bowed, and on the deck of the block. two heli coils on the exhaust bolt threads. I forgot to tell him, and in my posts earlier, the 4 corner intake bolts, the ones with the studs broke off on me. I would swear one was already broken, it just spun with zero effort, in fact none of them took any effort to turn at all, but no leaks. He laughed when he found them, said no issues he’ll remove them, he said it was a pretty common issue he sees.

The cylinders all look good he said, no ridges to speak of, little corrosion at the top in a couple of spots that he can clean up and won’t affect anything, just clean them up with a good honing.

Crank shaft is good, just needs a very light polish, in fact he said it looks really nice. Pistons/pins, CR, he said look good, I brought a couple in with me with me yesterday, and brought them back home. No issues, clean them, new bearings and rings and carry on.

Cam. I’m still looking into my options. Comp Cam and lifters, not cheap, but it sounds like a nice option. I’ll start another thread on this once I have some options lined up.

He said to go ahead and order up everything standard size. And make a decision on the cam before he does the bearings, he wants to have it when he installs the bearings. I would like to do that my self, but the bearing tool is $200 and no one in my area rents them, I still might. My dial indicator showed up today though, I’ll have to check that out.

I ordered up the Summit rebuild kit: Federal Mogul MK6116D000

 

Glad things are working in your favor Jeff..

 

Thanks John, it’s slowly coming together. I know you were interested in the costs too. Here’s where I am.

$$ Cdn.

Machine shop. (I haven’t got the final Bill) But estimated it’s going to be roughly $1,500. Heads, block, crank. Work as above. Hopefully less.
Summit kit. $460
water pump $145 Motorcraft
oil pan. $125
Timing chain kit. $75. Cloyes true roller
various. $150 Exhaust bolts, water pump hardware, thermostat, oil/coolant temp sensors, etc.
Harmonic balancer. $75
Head and intake bolts. $160. ARP.
TOTAL: $2,690

I am able to reuse pistons, crank, block, heads, intake, etc. Cam/lifters need to be replaced.

Cam. I found two options for a stock engine and computer.
Comp cam. 35-512-8. $1,300 Cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, keepers, retainers. Mild tq cam.
Melling. MC1288. $650. Cam and lifters. Stock cam.

For stock (using the Melling cam), $3,340 total. You save a bit over a long block ($4,500)


The other thing that was brought up in an other thread I had going for the cam, was emissions testing. Not an issue for me where I am, but that can change at anytime. I don’t know if the Comp Cam is, or is not, an issue for that. It’s something that I hadn’t thought of.