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The temperature sensor is a little metal disc that is clipped into the side top or bottom of air cleaner housing.
It it usually has one vacuum line in that terminates at the flapper on snorkel.
Throw some ole high heat paint on the shroud and install— it will work just fine.
You can pick up a cardboard heat hose at auto parts store.
Yeah pretty sure I don’t have that. When I found the air cleaner there was nothing attached anywhere and the one for my truck is long gone. So I’d have to find that.
something kind of big like 5/8. Just bring the little piece to the store and find something that fits. Around here a lot of the discount stores hardly carry vacuum line anymore, so find a well-stocked or commercial place.
That's what you need. Some of the later years this unit was aluminum. You can shine it up and make it look good.
The other guys can argue and get technical about the reason for this. I can tell you I live in Va, and I have had this happen on all my Ford cars and trucks with carbs. Summertime, you are good, the engine runs fine. Then you get into fall and winter. You get a cool misty morning, about 40-45 degrees or colder. You go out and start the vehicle up, everything is fine, you even have a manual choke and you activate it and get a nice high idle and the engine is warming up. A couple minutes later it starts acting like there is too much choke. So you push the choke in some. The idle drops, but it is still acting like it's too rich. You rev it up, it clears up some, let it idle down it runs for a little bit and quits.
You have to go to the store so you press the pedal down, it starts up, but it's running a little rough. You hold down the gas pedal with one foot while holding the brake with the other, and get it going. Everything seems ok till you get to the stop sign or stoplight. As soon as you stop the engine quits. It starts up, but is running rich still. You are really fighting this thing and it's getting frustrating. You finally get to the store, go in, and about 20 minutes later you go out and are ready for another fight. You start it up and it idles beautifully. It now runs like it always did. It has you wondering what in the world happened.
If you ever have something like this happen on a cold miserable morning, your carb is freezing up. Like was mentioned it will start happening at higher temps, around the 40's on down to the 30's. Like someone said it's all about the humidity. If you get a really cold day in the low 20's or lower, where it's dry and not snowing, it will not do it, even though it's cold outside. Those cold rainy miserable grey days is when it's the worst or when it's snowing a wet snow.
Ive seen FITech throttle bodies start to sweat on the outside at 90* ambient temperature in the shop just idling as so much air is pulling through at a low pressure it just starts to chill the throttle body.
Big reason why I am retaining my OE aircleaner. Sure doesn't get that cold down here but it is humid and once I move out more in central Texas the humidity goes up in the early mornings of fall and spring more so than summer and I just don't care to deal with problems trying to drive 75 mph at 2,700 - 3,000 rpm on the highway in these conditions.
Ive seen FITech throttle bodies start to sweat on the outside at 90* ambient temperature in the shop just idling as so much air is pulling through at a low pressure it just starts to chill the throttle body.
Big reason why I am retaining my OE aircleaner. Sure doesn't get that cold down here but it is humid and once I move out more in central Texas the humidity goes up in the early mornings of fall and spring more so than summer and I just don't care to deal with problems trying to drive 75 mph at 2,700 - 3,000 rpm on the highway in these conditions.
Part of the problem too is the refrigeration affect you get when the fuel is going from a liquid to a gas through the venturi of the carb. Just like your A/C sucks out the heat in the evap coil when the refrigerant goes from a liquid to a gas, heat is getting sucked out of the air stream through the carb.
If you have ever run a air tool for a extended period of time, you may have noticed it also can get cold.
So I just sold that air cleaner I posted a picture of. Guy offered me cash for my other truck that it went to and I had to take it and he wanted that air cleaner. Ha.
So is there another way to tackle this cold weather driving issue with aftermarket air cleaner or do I need to search for all these oem parts?
Good news is is I have alittle extra cash now I can spend to fix this issue. If this thing gets running good again I’ll def want to run it in the winter more and Maryland certainly has its fair share of cool/cold humid days.
So I just sold that air cleaner I posted a picture of. Guy offered me cash for my other truck that it went to and I had to take it and he wanted that air cleaner. Ha.
So is there another way to tackle this cold weather driving issue with aftermarket air cleaner or do I need to search for all these oem parts?
Good news is is I have alittle extra cash now I can spend to fix this issue. If this thing gets running good again I’ll def want to run it in the winter more and Maryland certainly has its fair share of cool/cold humid days.
Ya don't worry about until it actually becomes an issue. Otherwise you need to find a way to heat the incoming air OR heat the carb.
As for heating the carb Ford did make carb heating plate in the '50s and '60s for this exact reason (see below) there were available in both 4 and 2BBL.
This was designed to eliminate icing in vehicles without stove pipes most notable full-size stuff with the huge sound trap air cleaners (see below) Now you have to remember thermostat temps where much lower 160-180 in the era and no ethanol in the fuel..
So to use this on a modern vehicle with modern fuels will require some underhood plumbing.
First, it needs to be placed inline on the RETURN from the heater core,
Second, it needs to be plumbed in parallel with the return line,
Third, it needs to be throttleable you can use a ball valve either on the inlet to it or outlet so you can control just how hot the plate gets.
Fouth, you need to use a thick gasket between it and the intake and a thin gasket between the coolant plate and the carb.
Once you have some practice you will know exactly where to set the ball valve to handle for winter running. The rest of the time you can close it up and have the advantages of a better breathing open-air element.
Back home in Southern Ontario, we would get the same damp cold winter days with humidity in the high 80's and 90's and with an open-air element air cleaner carb icing was not just common it was a given. These plates solve the issue once and for all. The same thing was done in early EFI units with coolant being run through the throttle body to prevent icing.
There are a bunch on ebay that are cheap that are used but this is the cheapest.
That's the aluminum ones I was talking about. They clean up nice. I see also it has the sensor, actually it has two sensors. I think the one in the top lid is the one you want to use. Don't be surprised if the sensor doesn't work, but I usually mess with it and take it apart, and are able to get it working. Some of the ones I have taken apart actually have an adjustment in there you can play with to adjust the incoming temperature. One thing you have to be careful of, it matters which port on the switch goes to manifold vacuum, and which one goes to the air door. You will know when you have it backwards, it will close and draw in hot air and never open back up.
That's the aluminum ones I was talking about. They clean up nice. I see also it has the sensor, actually it has two sensors. I think the one in the top lid is the one you want to use. Don't be surprised if the sensor doesn't work, but I usually mess with it and take it apart, and are able to get it working. Some of the ones I have taken apart actually have an adjustment in there you can play with to adjust the incoming temperature. One thing you have to be careful of, it matters which port on the switch goes to manifold vacuum, and which one goes to the air door. You will know when you have it backwards, it will close and draw in hot air and never open back up.
Yep I got a NOS unit for my truck as my original aluminum one is all split up around the housing due to people over tightening it. Mine there is a vacuum hose that runs from the vacuum source to the driverside most fitting in the top of the aircleaner lid. Then passengerside fitting runs to a temperature vacuum switch in the side which then runs to the warm air door.
That's the aluminum ones I was talking about. They clean up nice. I see also it has the sensor, actually it has two sensors. I think the one in the top lid is the one you want to use. Don't be surprised if the sensor doesn't work, but I usually mess with it and take it apart, and are able to get it working. Some of the ones I have taken apart actually have an adjustment in there you can play with to adjust the incoming temperature. One thing you have to be careful of, it matters which port on the switch goes to manifold vacuum, and which one goes to the air door. You will know when you have it backwards, it will close and draw in hot air and never open back up.
Yeah, two prong metal one is the one needed, I couldn't find any for my truck, but I found some that are identical for other makes of vehicle, searched for bimetal device I believe and then did a lot of digging through google. The second device I think is called a Cold Weather Device and that one keeps it from closing off the heat if ambient temperature isn't so high.
Yeah, two prong metal one is the one needed, I couldn't find any for my truck, but I found some that are identical for other makes of vehicle, searched for bimetal device I believe and then did a lot of digging through google. The second device I think is called a Cold Weather Device and that one keeps it from closing off the heat if ambient temperature isn't so high.
I may have done that myself and robbed the sensor off a GM aircleaner. It was awhile back, but that statement is jogging my memory.
09-11-2019 | 06:25 AM
