What's everyone running for air intake: OEM or CAI??
#91
#93
Haha... That a boy! Mod fever...you caught it! I want to order a 5" DPF exhaust for looks. I realize it won't do much if anything but I've seen pics of trucks running the single 5 inch pipe. It looks bad@$$. Then I would do a CAI. Then the AFE air fuel separator pump that's plug and play.
#94
#96
Originally Posted by UP_There
Yup. Dyno's don't lie. I guess what I'm getting at, is...a company can "claim" any percentage of increase on flow. 50%!!!!!! 90%!!!!!! 485%!!!!!!! The Dyno proves what the gain REALLY is.
#97
#98
I never knew exactly what a flow bench was or looked into it, but here it is.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_flow_bench
I've seen pictures of them but I didn't pull them up like I just did.
#99
#100
I revisited a company that I used for my 96 Ford F250 351W when I converted to mass air. I used an electronic device from Kenne Bell for the fuel pump. But that's a totally different story than what's going on here. I will post this for information only as I think the concepts apply because here because of our 6.7 diesel's boosted nature. Sure, superchargers are driven by the engine and our turbos are driven by exhaust gases, but the concepts are similar IMHO. Here goes...
From this page here, is this:
WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF REAL COOL AIR SYSTEMS?
Except for those living in a village or under a rock, the advantages of cool air should be obvious. All the muscle cars and race cars since the “60’s” incorporated hood, cowl or bumper scoops as does any race car or intelligent air intake system design. Todays OEM engineers aren’t ignorant of the past or the present HP advantages of cool air. They connect dedicated tubes to the front of the grill, in front of the radiator on Mustangs and Camaros, the fenderwells or headlight on the Dodge Hemi Challenger and Hellcat.Doesn’t that tell you they believe in only cool outside air. ” Mixtures ” or “good enough” inlet systems cannot and will not supply maximum cool air and HP for the engine. Fact. Because of the 50-300% higher HP/air flow demanded by superchargers, the inlet “piping” and filter must obviously be proportionally large. Hence, the Kenne Bell 4.5″ Mammoth kits with the filter mounted under the front bumper (valance). It inhales only cool high oxygen HP increasing out side ambient rammed air.
The alternative is an underhood filter and box or a “filter on a stick” stuffed in the hot engine bay, sometimes with a shield or baffle to try and isolate the intake air flow from hot power robbing underhood air. Occasionally this cannot be avoided, but that doesn’t mean it is ideal.
Only too often, the inlet system supplied with the competitions kits are under designed. Larger more expensive upgrades are offered but also require another expense-retuning. Unfortunately, many remain “hot air” suckers. One merely cuts out a hole in the stock air box which increases air flow but seem to forget that it is HOT additional air flow.
See Home Page “The Kenne Bell 30-50HP advantage”.
From above:
“good enough” inlet systems cannot and will not supply maximum cool air and HP for the engine. Fact. Because of the 50-300% higher HP/air flow demanded by superchargers, the inlet “piping” and filter must obviously be proportionally large.
This applies to our diesels as well as the turbochargers demand higher air flow also. I believe this means that the OEM air filter set up is just good enough to get the rated HP and Torque that they seek. Now, I'm not saying the OEM air filter box isn't good or "sucks," I'm just saying it's designed for the masses and does what Ford needs it do. It uses a paper filter which flows enough air to support the engine's rated power while stopping the required sized particles to keep the intake air clean. I'm not knocking it. But there's always room for improvement. I believe I saw a newer gen Super Duty that had a performance package from Roush or Shelby that used a cold air intake and not the factory air box and paper filter. So I believe there's performance, however minimal, to be gained by using a quality aftermarket CAI which improves air flow which will add power. I'll try to find it and link it here later at some point.
Another page to peruse:
Press Reviews | Kenne Bell
Enjoy guys. I just feel there's info here to help explain the power gains by using a well designed, more free flowing CAI with a better flowing, quality air filter.
EDIT:
In this YouTube video at the 3:26 mark, it shows on the screen that the Shelby 1000 has a cold air intake under the "Performance" section. It has a 1000 lb/ft of torque so it obviously had tuning.
https://www.thedrive.com/news/19445/...-snake-mustang
From this page here, is this:
WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF REAL COOL AIR SYSTEMS?
Except for those living in a village or under a rock, the advantages of cool air should be obvious. All the muscle cars and race cars since the “60’s” incorporated hood, cowl or bumper scoops as does any race car or intelligent air intake system design. Todays OEM engineers aren’t ignorant of the past or the present HP advantages of cool air. They connect dedicated tubes to the front of the grill, in front of the radiator on Mustangs and Camaros, the fenderwells or headlight on the Dodge Hemi Challenger and Hellcat.Doesn’t that tell you they believe in only cool outside air. ” Mixtures ” or “good enough” inlet systems cannot and will not supply maximum cool air and HP for the engine. Fact. Because of the 50-300% higher HP/air flow demanded by superchargers, the inlet “piping” and filter must obviously be proportionally large. Hence, the Kenne Bell 4.5″ Mammoth kits with the filter mounted under the front bumper (valance). It inhales only cool high oxygen HP increasing out side ambient rammed air.
The alternative is an underhood filter and box or a “filter on a stick” stuffed in the hot engine bay, sometimes with a shield or baffle to try and isolate the intake air flow from hot power robbing underhood air. Occasionally this cannot be avoided, but that doesn’t mean it is ideal.
Only too often, the inlet system supplied with the competitions kits are under designed. Larger more expensive upgrades are offered but also require another expense-retuning. Unfortunately, many remain “hot air” suckers. One merely cuts out a hole in the stock air box which increases air flow but seem to forget that it is HOT additional air flow.
See Home Page “The Kenne Bell 30-50HP advantage”.
From above:
“good enough” inlet systems cannot and will not supply maximum cool air and HP for the engine. Fact. Because of the 50-300% higher HP/air flow demanded by superchargers, the inlet “piping” and filter must obviously be proportionally large.
This applies to our diesels as well as the turbochargers demand higher air flow also. I believe this means that the OEM air filter set up is just good enough to get the rated HP and Torque that they seek. Now, I'm not saying the OEM air filter box isn't good or "sucks," I'm just saying it's designed for the masses and does what Ford needs it do. It uses a paper filter which flows enough air to support the engine's rated power while stopping the required sized particles to keep the intake air clean. I'm not knocking it. But there's always room for improvement. I believe I saw a newer gen Super Duty that had a performance package from Roush or Shelby that used a cold air intake and not the factory air box and paper filter. So I believe there's performance, however minimal, to be gained by using a quality aftermarket CAI which improves air flow which will add power. I'll try to find it and link it here later at some point.
Another page to peruse:
Press Reviews | Kenne Bell
Enjoy guys. I just feel there's info here to help explain the power gains by using a well designed, more free flowing CAI with a better flowing, quality air filter.
EDIT:
In this YouTube video at the 3:26 mark, it shows on the screen that the Shelby 1000 has a cold air intake under the "Performance" section. It has a 1000 lb/ft of torque so it obviously had tuning.
https://www.thedrive.com/news/19445/...-snake-mustang
Last edited by Overkill2; 03-01-2020 at 01:46 PM. Reason: Add to post
#101
Stock. But definitely had my eye on the S & B. Probably won't do more than window shop, as it's not really a priority.
#102
Okay, since dynos were recently discussed here, I want to link an article here about dynos that everyone will hopefully find as interesting as I did. Enjoy.
https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diese...t-horsepower/#
https://www.dieselworldmag.com/diese...t-horsepower/#
#103
I read the Kenne Bell statement you posted Overkill2. That statement is correct. Superchargers are different than turbos in that you can spin a supercharger faster to force more air into a motor. Even a supercharger can only move so much air. A bigger air filter would make it easier for that to happen. You can make it easier for a turbo to suck in air but a turbo is limited in stock form as to how much air it will move.
If you try to put to much in a turbo the fins will load up with air and will not be able to produce more boost. I do think that a filter under the hood in the engine bay only sucks in hot air and defeats the idea of a CAI. Running duct to the front of the engine where it can suck in water or rain will be a issue unless you only drive on sunny days than no problem. In the fender protected from water behind the fender liner is the best place for the filter. It's just hard to get at the filter in that location. Best way to increase a colder air charge to the motor is a better intercooler. A air to air wont work with high boost turbos. You need a water to air intercooler. The bigger the better. Cool air makes more power because of the denser charge. With a diesel you can only add so much air because of the turbo.
You also need a little bigger exhaust but if you go to big it will rob you of horse power as well. There needs to be some back pressure to make the exhaust work. A X pipe is a way to make the exhaust more efficient. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to exhaust. Headers are another way to increase flow. smooth out the bends. Increase the runners and make the pipes all the same length. You want to increase flow at the same time keep some back pressure. Its a science thing. I don't know what diameter works the best I just know the concept. A good exhaust guy will know when big is to big.
If you try to put to much in a turbo the fins will load up with air and will not be able to produce more boost. I do think that a filter under the hood in the engine bay only sucks in hot air and defeats the idea of a CAI. Running duct to the front of the engine where it can suck in water or rain will be a issue unless you only drive on sunny days than no problem. In the fender protected from water behind the fender liner is the best place for the filter. It's just hard to get at the filter in that location. Best way to increase a colder air charge to the motor is a better intercooler. A air to air wont work with high boost turbos. You need a water to air intercooler. The bigger the better. Cool air makes more power because of the denser charge. With a diesel you can only add so much air because of the turbo.
You also need a little bigger exhaust but if you go to big it will rob you of horse power as well. There needs to be some back pressure to make the exhaust work. A X pipe is a way to make the exhaust more efficient. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to exhaust. Headers are another way to increase flow. smooth out the bends. Increase the runners and make the pipes all the same length. You want to increase flow at the same time keep some back pressure. Its a science thing. I don't know what diameter works the best I just know the concept. A good exhaust guy will know when big is to big.
#104
I read the Kenne Bell statement you posted Overkill2. That statement is correct. Superchargers are different than turbos in that you can spin a supercharger faster to force more air into a motor. Even a supercharger can only move so much air. A bigger air filter would make it easier for that to happen. You can make it easier for a turbo to suck in air but a turbo is limited in stock form as to how much air it will move.
If you try to put to much in a turbo the fins will load up with air and will not be able to produce more boost. I do think that a filter under the hood in the engine bay only sucks in hot air and defeats the idea of a CAI. Running duct to the front of the engine where it can suck in water or rain will be a issue unless you only drive on sunny days than no problem. In the fender protected from water behind the fender liner is the best place for the filter. It's just hard to get at the filter in that location. Best way to increase a colder air charge to the motor is a better intercooler. A air to air wont work with high boost turbos. You need a water to air intercooler. The bigger the better. Cool air makes more power because of the denser charge. With a diesel you can only add so much air because of the turbo.
You also need a little bigger exhaust but if you go to big it will rob you of horse power as well. There needs to be some back pressure to make the exhaust work. A X pipe is a way to make the exhaust more efficient. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to exhaust. Headers are another way to increase flow. smooth out the bends. Increase the runners and make the pipes all the same length. You want to increase flow at the same time keep some back pressure. Its a science thing. I don't know what diameter works the best I just know the concept. A good exhaust guy will know when big is to big.
If you try to put to much in a turbo the fins will load up with air and will not be able to produce more boost. I do think that a filter under the hood in the engine bay only sucks in hot air and defeats the idea of a CAI. Running duct to the front of the engine where it can suck in water or rain will be a issue unless you only drive on sunny days than no problem. In the fender protected from water behind the fender liner is the best place for the filter. It's just hard to get at the filter in that location. Best way to increase a colder air charge to the motor is a better intercooler. A air to air wont work with high boost turbos. You need a water to air intercooler. The bigger the better. Cool air makes more power because of the denser charge. With a diesel you can only add so much air because of the turbo.
You also need a little bigger exhaust but if you go to big it will rob you of horse power as well. There needs to be some back pressure to make the exhaust work. A X pipe is a way to make the exhaust more efficient. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to exhaust. Headers are another way to increase flow. smooth out the bends. Increase the runners and make the pipes all the same length. You want to increase flow at the same time keep some back pressure. Its a science thing. I don't know what diameter works the best I just know the concept. A good exhaust guy will know when big is to big.
I believe you will see a very minimum increase in power from the use of a quality aftermarket CAI. It's usually more torque than horsepower for our engines. Like a stated, for a stock application like our 6.7 with the factory tune, it will be small but it will be there. Those aftermarket air filters will hold more dirt while flowing more air than the paper filters. Our 6.7s performance can also be increased by buying a quality aftermarket intercooler that increases air flow and the intercooler efficiency like you said. If I had an extra 1200 bucks that I didn't know what to do with, I'd buy a Mishimoto intercooler. There are other makes also.
You're right about headers also but I think our trucks are fairly efficient with the way the heads are set up. An aftermarket down pipe would probably help out with exhaust flow in our engines but you'd have to pull the cab off to get to it. As for exhaust pipe diameter, I agree but I want a DPF back 5 inch exhaust pipe behind my rocketship. I'm doing it for looks as I love the way that big pipe looks on the deleted trucks. No tip, just a stainless steel five inch pipe sitting there. I like to be different and want to stand out from the crowd. I'm probably going to be removing my aftermarket black 6.7 Powerstroke door badges. I think it will look smoother. That's why I removed my 4x4 bed stickers. It just looks cleaner. I also want to paint my F350 badges black. I want to keep the chrome outline around the "F350" but murder out the chrome trim around the whole emblem.
#105
I like where this conversation is going. Bringing in all the different elements of turbo's, superchargers, intakes, intercoolers, etc. It brings up the many possibilities. I am still in the exploratory phase for the 6.7 on aftermarket benefits, but I CAN bring some knowledge to the table with how all these things affected the 7.3L diesel. I never did dyno mine, but I did have an upgraded intercooler, intake, and turbo wheel on my 7.3, and that paired with quality tunes was a HUGE difference on that motor. The factory air box on those trucks was pretty crappy, and an aftermarket setup was a no-brainer on benefits. I chose to go with the 6637 filter, which was very loud, but that sucker flowed some air like crazy, and it also had great filtering results. When I added a bigger intercooler, that not only added power, it dropped EGT's about 230-250 degrees. Temps aren't a problem on the 6.7's like they were on the 7.3's, but you can see where the benefits would add to our trucks as well.
Sometimes, aftermarket products can actually HURT a truck, rather than help it. An example pertaining to the 7.3 airbox was the drop-in K & N filter type. Yes it flowed more air, but because of the poor factory design, that filter would allow dust to get sucked into the turbo, and that was bad. I had that happen a little bit, and suffered some dusting of the turbo wheel. I promptly switched to the 6637 filter, and upgraded the turbo wheel. Instant good results!
How all this transfers to the 6.7 is the thing we all care about. I wish I knew more about aftermarket results, but that's why we're all on this thread to begin with right?![Missing Teeth](images/smilies/missingteeth.gif)
Sometimes, aftermarket products can actually HURT a truck, rather than help it. An example pertaining to the 7.3 airbox was the drop-in K & N filter type. Yes it flowed more air, but because of the poor factory design, that filter would allow dust to get sucked into the turbo, and that was bad. I had that happen a little bit, and suffered some dusting of the turbo wheel. I promptly switched to the 6637 filter, and upgraded the turbo wheel. Instant good results!
How all this transfers to the 6.7 is the thing we all care about. I wish I knew more about aftermarket results, but that's why we're all on this thread to begin with right?
![Missing Teeth](images/smilies/missingteeth.gif)