Just checking in.

Was wondering if you removed and checked your fuel tank for leaks?

My tank when I was trying to find out why I got crappy fuel milage had a string of pin holes right around the 3/4 fill level. Replaced tank with a 74 GMC saddle tank.
Do not leave fuel in the tank if you are going to park it for a long time. The Ethanol caused pin holes in my 74 GMC tank also.

I run with a 351 Winsor, 1970s 3/4-ton F250 rear end.
Working on engine problems at the moment.

 

No the tank is full of rust but not holes. The milage was a plugged up carb and a bad seal on the gas cap causing fuel to evaporate when parked.

 

ALL I WANTED TO DO WAS REPLACE THE ROTORS

 

Well that escalated quickly.

 

Welcome to my world ? lol

 

Update on the magical stub shaft adventure.

Had to take apart the stubs to renew the seals. Double tapered roller with a sacrificial crush washer to maintain preload, those were unique. Ordered those before christmas and dropped the stubs off at my Jag guy to sort out as I want it done right.

He finally calls me today to inform me that the stub shaft bolts cannot be sourced individually and are instead part of the axle part number, so I need new axles.

I mic'd the bolts i have, the thread is .43125, and the shank is .438, with a tight tolerance because of the press fit. Went on a grand bolt adventure to every supplier and machine shop who said no way.

I suffer.

 

It's blue again.

I think i'm going to CLR it next time, it really came out nicely here. Probably the first time it's been deliberately washed since Nixon was in office. Last sticker was 1979.

I also wasn't sure how watertight my firewall is so i just dumped a bucket of wash over the motor and rinsed it down. It ain't clean but it sure is cleaner.

 

So I noticed I have a nasty oil leak, and it's only getting worse. I tried to drop the pan in place but the crossmember wouldn't allow it, afterwards it's so bad it's just visibly dripping at a constant rate. I'm sure I ruined the oil pan seal but it might be the main seal. Either way i have to pull the motor to do it, so I ordered both.

The fun never ends.

 

HEY IT'S HELL DAY HERE AT SUFERTOWN



I wanted to get Sketchy sorted out because my Jaguar is in a zillion pieces and needs to be at a car show next saturday, and I need sketchy to make parts runs. I thought this would be 4 hours and done like last time but no, everything fought, everything was trouble, just a huge slog.

Taking the main seal out also came at a cost, I was prying it and it let go very suddenly. I slammed my hand against the milled edge at the back of the block and I sheared the entire cap on my right index finger's knuckle clean off. Right down to the cartilage. The worst part is I have a very weak sense of feel which means a very high pain tolerance. I didn't even notice I was missing a chunk of my finger until I lost grip of my now blood drenched puller, only to look down and find the back of the block and my clothes were drenched in the stuff. It's just been that kind of week generally too, real neato. There's now a permanent trail of blood going up the wood steps to the mudroom sink to commemorate the festivities. That junk ain't never coming out.

Oil leak was indeed the main seal, not the oil pan. Pulled it all, took care to put it all back together right. Zero sludge in the pan, which suprised me a lot. Timing chain is junk, and all my rockers were ok, so my ticking is most likely a failing lifter. Cool.

Finally it's been 10 hours, i'm putting it back together, I just want the motor back in the truck and i can seal it all up tomorrow.




Then bam. Turns out the motor mounts were broken the whole time. I have no idea what the part number is for these, as they came in a kit. Now i have to play chinese fire drill to find out what the hell these even are.

I suffer.

 

Dang. Your adventures sound a lot like mine. It's been a running joke for decades than if I hit a stubborn part of a job, things will never go right until I give up a blood sacrifice. Every single time, after I stream blood everywhere, things will fall right into place. I know your pain.

I hope you have no permanent damage that leave your finger stiff.

 

Motor mount failure is common when installed like that, typical of most aftermarket frame mounts. The weight of the engine is supposed to be supported by the pad of the insulator and the through bolt is there to hold everything in place. Those mount stands put all the weight on the bolt and the insulator suffers the effect. Those appear to be the early Mustang style, commonly used on many of these aftermarket engine conversion kits.

 

52merc is correct.

 

I had always figured it was a little weird to put all that weight on the bolt flanges, makes sense. I wonder what the best solution is, perhaps a solid replacement is the only quick and easy one?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aftermarket...2/153396051845

this would appear to be a good substitute.

 

Steve,
Are those truly solid or is there a bushing inside? I do not see in the description one-way or the other.

 

It looks like there's an intermediary bolt with a bushing, seems to exist to solve this specific problem.



I'd like to find a domestic supply, they only appear to be on australian ebay for some reason. Nothing on summit that I can find, nary a part number either.

Until I do though, literally everything I own will be but parts scattered around the shop. Ow my pride.