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Hi all. I'm somewhat new here. Been doing a lot of reading and searching lately. There's a LOT to read here!
I recently acquired a 77 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351. I've been shopping around for a dentside for a year or so, and after discovering this one, I just had to have it. I liked it for it's color scheme, and the fact that it's a 3-spd column shift... mostly because I thought it was kinda odd that someone would spring the cash for an XLT package, but yet they got a 3 on the tree. I did learn that the original buyer ordered this truck this way... it wasn't something he picked off the lot. The truck was also ordered with the extra battery option.
After the original purchase, the man had a helluva towing rig installed... looks like a class 3 hitch to me. I don't know why he had such a sturdy tow rig installed... this truck really doesn't have the power to pull anything substantial. With the 351, 3 spd manual, and 3.00 rear diff, it doesn't feel like something I'd want to pull a trailer with! The guy I bought it from told me his dad typically installed one of these towing rigs on all his trucks, but didn't pull much more than a small utility trailer with it.
The original owner also put aluminum mags on it, and installed a Robyn CB radio. I took the CB apart (and also the stereo) and sprayed all the pots and controls with Deoxic Gold and now both radios work very nicely.
Since I got it, I've had to have the heads reworked... due to old fuel I'm sure. Pushrods and intake valves got bad within a few days. The guy told me it had fresh gas in the front tank, but it seems he only put fresh gas over OLD gas and things went south fairly fast due to this. Runs pretty smooth now... when it runs. Ive been stranded a few times with it, and finally figured out there was a TINY little screen under the needle valve in the carburetor that was getting clogged. Both tanks had been removed and cleaned when it got the valve job, but I suspect there was still some fine rusty residue in the tanks getting past the cheesy fuel filter. I have since then installed an inline filter which helped greatly! However, I can see that there's still some residue getting in that filter, so I am getting new tanks to install.
Question: What's the difference between the tanks I'm seeing online for the front AUX tank? There's one listed at LMC for a REGULAR cab, and one listed for a CREW cab. But I have a super cab... so which should I get? Will it make any difference? I did notice that one carries one more gallon than the other. Anyone else here with a SuperCab replace their AUX tank? I've already ordered the rear MAIN tank... seems that it doesn't matter what kind of cab you have for the rear tank. Hope to have it in a few days.
The AC... I've done lots of reading here concerning the fixed idler pulley that keeps the belt from flapping when the compressor is running. It appears there was a pulley on mine before, but now is gone. I see where others have inquired about the correct part number... but so far I've been reading about 460's and 390's.
Question: What is the correct part number for the fixed idler used in 1977 with 351M and factory air?
This truck came with the factory bed cover, but I decided to remove it as it's really not my style. Looks too much like a "grampa truck" with the camper shell on it! I was very surprised at how different the truck drove without it!
I haven't rode in one of these since I was in high school. A friend of mine had a 78 model. Now, all these years later, I am amazed at how SMOOTH this truck rides! It's like riding in a Town Car! I just don't get it... why don't new trucks ride so nicely today?
Future plans for this truck include:
1. New rear window gasket replacement- the old one is cracked badly in the corners.
2. Clean up the slop in the gear shift. All looks good under the hood with the linkage connectors and grommets, but have determined the slop is coming from that part behind the steering wheel.
It's drivable as is, but I'd guess I can wiggle the shifter up and down 2 to 3 inches from any position and I'm sure that can be reduced with some effort.
3. Power steering gearbox needs a new seal at the top. Might just replace the whole thing.
4. Rag joint needs replacing.
5. Replace the original stereo speakers with something better (although I plan to keep the original stereo).
6. New paint job... keeping the original colors. The white paint is in pretty good shape, but the green paint is very tired. There's no rust on the truck, but there are 3 minor dings that need fixing.
The undercarriage got the Zeibart treatment, so all is good under there as well.
7. Rear brake job.
8. Replace AC/heat controls. Sounds like a vacuum leak in certain positions... drives me crazy!
Things I've done so far:
1. Replaced weather stripping for the doors.
2. Valve job.
3. Replaced fuel pump.
4. Replaced water pump and timing gear. Since the top half of the engine was broken down, it would have been foolish not to replace this since it was now easily accessible.
5. Convert AC to 134a.
6. Drained and refilled lube in the tranny and rear diff.
7. Cleaned out the carburetor... twice!
So far, I've been getting around 13 MPG combined driving. Is this what other 351 owners are getting?
Congrats on your new truck! And I do mean NEW! It's a freeking time capsule! One of the nicest original interiors I've ever seen.
You will need to have your mid-ship tank resealed on the inside, they are not reproduced. Also your tank sender for that tank should be handled very carefully because it, too, is not reproduced. I had mine rebuilt by Tri-Starr for big bucks.
You probably have a vacuum hose or two disconnected on your control panel switch for the A/C.
Looks like your gorgeous truck still has it's original paint; you should use some good rubbing compound on it.
So the midship tank is on my truck is different from the crewcab and regular cab... interesting. Considering how many SuperCabs are out there (more than Crew Cabs I'm sure), I'm surprised that tank isn't made today.
And no-go for a fuel sender... that sucks because mine is going out in that tank! You can fill the tank, and it will go to full, then after burning off 3 gallons, it starts to head to empty. Around 5 gallons remaining, it MIGHT come up to the appropriate mark. I had considered removing the sender to see if I could get by with cleaning the contacts. It acts as if there's some corrosion along the path of the wiper. Since it does work some, there isn't a break in the coil of wire, and even if there was, I could likely put a dab of solder to close the gap.
I investigated the vacuum lines on the AC controls when I removed the stereo. All looked good with the lines. The vacuum leak is heard when the selector is in the "vent" and "hi-lo" positions.
The paint on mine will improve a little with compound, but I think it's had a compound treatment in the past because the green is pretty thin in places... to the point where you can see the white base coat under it. Raised edges (such as the center line running down the middle of the hood) have no paint left and look very smooth, so I assume that someone used a buffer on this truck one too many times. I did, however try some cleaner wax in a few places, and it did improve, but I could tell it was thin. There's also a lot of cracking in the paint over the radiator. I also plan on getting insulation for the hood to keep that from happening again once it gets painted.
The inside is insanely clean! The truck only had 109,000 when I got it.... and it shows on the inside! The seat is just now getting a spot along a seam that will need attention before long. The upholstery is clean with very little fading. I'm glad the carpet is clean because I doubt I could get replacement green carpet of this quality.
The thing I really hate the most... these CRAZY side mirrors!! Holy crap they vibrate so much to where it's useless to look in them! My parents' 77 SuperCab, '80 Econoline, and '85 Econoline had those same mirrors... I don't remember all that vibration while going down the road!
Yay! You'll enjoy all the great info these factory manuals have.
On your A/C controls, the vacuum actuators might have gone bad, but you'll just have to troubleshoot that all out seeking the source of your leaks. The manuals should help you with that.
Yeah, hope you can get your sender fixed yourself. Tri-Starr is excellent, but expensive, and it took quite a while.
I think it's interesting that your glorious XLT has carpeted kick panels, my XLT has painted metal panels.
I've read those Ford Truck brochures online that talk about the various features and options, and noticed that they say a 77 XLT has wall to wall carpeting (as mine does). It also says that a Ranger SuperCab comes with two courtesy lights (am assuming that the ones over your feet in the front) but mine only has the cab light over the rear window... and in a cab that size, it really isn't enough.
I got my new rear gas tank installed... I was really fired up about it! Unfortunately, it was a challenge getting it in there due to that towing rig back there. So new tank, sender, and filler tube... and no leaks, no drips, no spills! Now I shouldn't have to worry about changing another fuel filter!
I found a couple of places in the Houston area that does fuel tank repairs. I will check with them to see if they can put a lining in the Aux tank.
So, no words from the wise concerning that fixed AC pulley?
Can you show a picture of the fixed pulley? Mine has a pulley, but it's the belt tightener, shaft on a 4" or so plate that swings. I did replace one a couple years ago, and I know I got it at a parts store, but can't seem to find the number offhand...
Also - how common was that steering wheel? I've not seen a "fancy" one without cruise control - and they're put together the same as the plain black ones, with a removeable center cover. That one looks 1 piece?
I have the pulley you speak of for tightening the belt. I'm speaking of the pulley that's supposed to be just below the compressor. Mine is missing. As a result, the belt does a lot of flopping when the compressor engages. I can hear it in the cab... drives me nuts! Here's one on a 460... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13023322 There's a few different ones that ive seen so far. I just want to make sure I get the right one for a 351.
I believe the woodgrain looking horn pad is typically found on XLT's. I've seen where you can buy that part on the web. They are quite proud of it being that its over a hundred bucks! https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/prod...77-ford-bronco
Huh, I've got a 351M and a 400 w/AC compressors, neither one have that lower pulley on em. Watching to see what comes up! (belts flop on mine, too)
Must have just been the light in that first picture of your wheel, it looked like the center was shaped differently when I glanced - second picture looks like what I'm used to seeing (not in that nice of shape, BTW!!)
Some of the above have two idler pulleys, one fixed, one adjustable, but the 351M/400's only have an adjustable idler pulley.
1973/79 F1200/350 7 1978/79 Bronco: Factory installed integral A/C is combined with the heater. The A/C controls are located in the same panel as the heater controls.
The HUGE A/C evaporator housing is located on the right (passenger side) rear corner of the engine compartment.
Here's the 1978/79 Bronco pic (lower), the only idler pulley shown (8678) is adjustable, and it's mounted to the compressor bracket.
11-06-2017 | 06:01 PM
