What size blocks did your 2wd truck come with?

 

Did you order just the blocks themselves or did you get them with the bumpstop or airbag tangs? I do have a little bit of driveline vibration now using the 2" Ford OEM blocks with no taper and was thinking going with the PMF 2" / 2.5* taper blocks with airbags tangs.

Trevor with PMF and David with OUO both said to go with the 2.5* taper blocks.

 

I have not experienced any drive line vibration even when pulling my 5th wheel. I used the oem blocks with no taper.

 

I have a 2017 F250 and want to lower it. Using the block # 6C3Z-5598-A and U bolt # BC3Z-5705 -K is all I need? Thanks.

 

Those are the parts I used on my 2017 F250 without tow package.

 

This is a late reply, but my wheelbase measures 160" on both sides.

 

Thanks appreciate!!

 

To cficare, I agree with other posters, great write-up and pics!

Quick question: do you have 3 (base F250) or 4 leaf springs?

Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks! Mine has 3 leaves. Counted them in the photos I posted ... and double-checked just a few minutes ago.

 

Sure appreciate the quick reply! My eyesight's been better, it looked like 3, but the seams had me guessing. I'm going to try and post a distillation of sizes / vehicle pairings and summary of advice from this thread momentarily, as I think it's a gold mine for anyone wanting to reverse-level to eliminate some of that rake.

 

To all the contributors, I read through this extensive and well-considered thread and was blown away by all the good communal advice. Below, I've tried to combine all the part numbers, and the "things to consider" advice into a single post. Maybe it's my connection, but to scroll through this whole post, and all the pictures, took an extended period of time. By combining it all into a post, I hope to enable others to start with an accurate summary if they have limited time, then go back into the thread for details if time allows.

To that end, if I've posted anything erroneous, please leave me a correction in the thread and I'll edit accordingly. Also, if you have any negative results down the road (e.g. premature component wear or failure), please share those as well.



Summary of 2017/2018 F250/F350 Reverse-Level Advice

Parts:

• Replacement (smaller) 2” Block – (OEM part # 6C3Z-5598-A)

• F-250 Replacement (11.5”/292mm) OEM U-bolts - # BC3Z-5705-K (base model/3 leaf springs)

• F-250 Replacement (13”/330mm) OEM U-bolts - # BC3Z-5705-F (overloaded/4 leaf springs)

• F-350 SRW Replacement (14.5”/365mm) OEM U-bolts - # BC3Z-5705-C (overloaded/5 leaf springs)

Procedure:

1. Remove stock u-bolts
2. Remove stock rear blocks
3. Replace with shorter Ford OEM or aftermarket blocks
4. Secure with u-bolts
5. Torque to 185# with truck off jack/stands and on ground*

Notes:

• Order 2x blocks (either OEM or aftermarket; aftermarket are available in varying sizes and offsets)
• Order 4x u-bolts (optional per posters; see truck model/leaf combo above for OEM part number pairing)

• New OEM u-bolts do not come with nuts, you may re-use originals (24mm)
• Strongly consider re-aligning headlights after modification
• Should be the same process regardless of whether or not truck has a camper package
• Install time varies: 30-90 minutes is an approx. range (shop vs. self)
• Shop labor will likely run ~$120 (location-dependent; shop experience dependent)
• Some posters favor re-using stock u-bolts, additional information at this link: https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/reinstalling-ubolts/
• Consider shock upgrade also when factory shocks are shot (Fox 2.0 have been used successfully; “use the 2016 part number and change the rear lower bushings and sleeves” was posted advice)

 

Hello everyone,
I referred to this thread several times trying to decide how I was going to level my truck without raising the front end. Thank you to everyone for sharing your info and experiences.
It was enough of a chore for the little lady to get in to the truck after I put 35" tires on it, so I knew better than to raise it even higher.
I ended up using the 1 1/2" blocks with a 2.5 degree taper from PMF Suspension.
Denver Spring and Suspension installed them for me, along with new U-bolts. I attached 'after and before' pictures...

 

Trouble_Is,

Thanks for sharing - looks great - and a significant level. I'm surprised at how much difference just an inch or two actually makes.

My blocks just came in (the replacement OEM Ford block is less than 2"). My stock blocks were 3" on the nose, so we'll see. I'm shooting to complete it within the week and will post pics once it's finished.

 

Ok, completed the reverse level on a 2017 F250 XLT w/ Camper and Snow Plow Prep packages with a 6.2L gasser. My stock blocks were 3", the new OEM F150 blocks were approx. 1.5" (a little over 1.5"). It certainly netted over an inch in drop. I took the pics in bad light, but you can see the drop. I superimposed a line along the running board so you can see where it bisects the rear tire. There is a noticeable drop in that point after lowering. Since I have more stout springs (front and rear), and a lighter engine, I may have had less initial rake than some. It looks to me like it still has a slight rake, but not trying to do a headstand now. Inverted the images so you could see the line height delta left-to-right.

Before:


After: