Just did the conversion yesterday, stock 5 leaf spring 2017 F350 SRW LB with BC3Z-5705-C U-bolts with 6C3Z-5598-A spacers. Had to break the wheels loose of the hubs with the old school method of loosening lugs and driving in a circle. Neighbors must of thought I was nuts. Besides that easy install. I didnt tell my wife I did anything to the truck but she asked if I put new shocks on, truck didnt seem as rough to her. It maybe just in my head but it does seem to ride a bit softer. Installing the new 7500 Air Lift rear bags next.

 

If anyone interested in doing this needs the parts, I have them for you. I thought I was going to need to lower my truck to fit into the parking garage at work, but as it turns out the truck just barely fits as-is. So I have an unopened box from TASCA parts sitting in my garage, and it's well past the return period.

Spacer: 6C3Z-5598-A
U-Bolt: BC3Z-5705-K

Parts were $135, shipping was $23...make an offer.

 

I have always leveled my trucks and intended to do the rear lowering on my new '18 F350 CCSB 4x4 6.7; but when I hook up my 5er it sits perfectly level. I don't like the rear raised look, but I'm not sure I want to spend the money to lower and then have to add airbags to re-level it after my 5er is connected......

 

Just ordered 1.5" blocks and U bolts from Precision Metal Fab.
2.5*
Anticipation.....

 

That's what I did with my 17 F350 SRW. I want it lower when I'm not towing for easier access. I added air bags when I'm hooked to the 5er. From everything I read on the RV forums they say it rides better eith the bags anyway

 

Lowered truck with factory blocks and it is now perfect height. One issue I have not read about on the forum. After job was done I measured wheelbase on both sides. One side was off by an inch. Had to loosen things up and reset 176 wheelbase. Anyone else measure wheelbase and have any problems? I thought the pins would set all the variables but was wrong.

 

I had lowered my 2018 a few months ago with no intention of getting a new truck camper at the time but things changed. Got a 2019 for a good deal. I am going to re-install the EO blocks...seems new camper is a bit heavier then my current and I like to have it at least level when loaded. Good call on your part to stay stock.

 

There was one fellow (I think with an F450) who had his rear axle out of square, but he used aftermarket blocks which had multiple pin holes ... made it easy to hit the wrong one. I have not seen any similar issues with factory blocks and thought they all had single alignment-pin holes. Your situation is a new one to me. Did you manage to put yours together with the pin out of the hole? And when you loosened it back up to straighten it out, did you see multiple holes for the pin?

 

The factory pins had only one hole and they were properly set. The first time I was moving the axle with the Jack under the shock mount. Did a lot of jacking and I think caused the axle to move. Second try I jacked the frame on both sides behind the running board area. Had tires just off the ground. There is quite a bit of movemeofnt possible when the u bolts are loose. Made the wheelbase equal on both sides and torqued the bolts. Posted wondering if people were just installing the blocks and not checking axle. Trucks should be checked after this install.

 

Something still sounds cattywompass. Admittedly, I only ensured the pins and holes were aligned (felt around for the holes where I could not see them directly) and have not measured wheelbase to compare port versus starboard... but I will measure it soon.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

Yep, that would be the purpose of the blocks/rake......

 

Will do, but that may take a week or more as I'm not near mine right now.

 

For a 2017 F250 2wd gasser would it be the same parts and process? Using PN 6c3z-5705-k and shorter U-Bolts? Thank you in advance