78 F250, 4x4, 400

I have a strange one here. The left side of my dash has no power. I have everything replaced to include gauges, circuit board, voltage regulator, etc. The oil pressure, left blinker, and fuel do nothing for some reason. Obviously a wire must be shorted or cut but perhaps it is something else.

Has anyone ever seen this issue?

 

1976/78 F100/350: TWO different printed circuit boards, which one did you install?

D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil Pressure GAUGES / Marked: D6TF-10C956-BA / Obsolete

1976/79 F100/350; 1976/91 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco.
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D6TZ-10K843-C .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Amp & Oil WARNING LAMPS / Marked: D6TF-10C956-CA / Obsolete

1976/78 F100/350 & Econoline; 1978 Bronco.
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1975/79 F100/350; 1975/80 Econoline; 1978/79 Bronco:

The instrument cluster backs were made of a composition material that can TURN TO DUST before your very eyes!

1981: FoMoCo introduced hard plastic cluster backs for Econolines, these were also the "service part replacements" for the POS cluster backs.

There are TWO different types: E1PZ-10848-A with oil/amp gauges (1981/91 Econoline); E1PZ-10848-B with oil/amp warning lamps (1981/86 Econoline).

Both are obsolete, but Carpenter has both of them.

 

I have the gauges and got mine from Bronco Graveyard. I have 3 trucks of the same age and have replaced all three. This one is just got me stumped.

 

1976-1979 Ford Bronco and F Series Truck Printed Circuit Board, Gauge-Broncograveyard.com

 

Maybe for some reason, some terminals on the cluster harness connector are not making contact with the traces on the IP PCB, where the connector plugs in.
If the pressure-bearing parts of the cluster around the light bulb holes will crumble, then the same thing could happen at the connector 'jack.'

 

any idea where to get the connectors? I found some googling and they are for gm I dont know if the connectors that slide in the clip to the printed circuit bord are make specific or a universal connection

 

I would take a step back, and look at the wiring plug. The oil pressure gauge probably needs a power and a reading from the gauge. The turn signal and fuel gauge should be one wire to each. Left turn signal should be green/white. Fuel gauge should be orange. Also, make sure your grounds are good. If that side is not getting power, none of those instrument panel things will work.

 

I need new metal connectors

 

I dont know of anyone that sells them, what is wrong with the ones you have?
If the tabs that hold it into the plastic is broken off then the only way I can think of a fix would be to find another plug with wire long enough to splice it into your harness.

Now you dont have to splice inthe whole plug just remove the 1 wire you need to replace and splice it into your harness.
If the plastic part is bad and need to change it mark down all the wire colors and where they go in the plug and remove each wire.
Note there are tools used to remove the spade part from plugs, dont try and use a small screw driver as you will mess up the spade.
Dave ----

 

if you look at the top of the metal that actually contacts the printed circuit bord the half circle that comes stock is a 1/4 circle. I have cleaned my circuit bord and fuse box and checked each wire. I have no dash lights and no fuel gauge even tho the sender was replaced. The only two broken connectors are for fuel gauge and dash lights so I'd bank on them not contacting the PCB. I did find some online that are labled for GM[ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...RoCdG4QAvD_BwE ]
but I dont know enough about the connectors to know if gm used their own or of some person invented one style that all manufacturers use

 

If you have a junk yard near you, what I would do is locate an older Ford there which has that same style of metal terminals, and just cut all the wires off, leaving a few inches for pigtails. Then bring that connector home and remove the terminals with the same color wire as your bad ones, cut off the bad ones, and splice in the new ones and clip them into your connector block.

 

I was always told a new connection is the right way because the more cuts and splices you make causes draw and makes the flow of electricity work more. I would love to buy new ones so I can write off the contacts as bad. I know for a fact that if I had a alternator dummy light this wouldn't be a option as the wire is a resistor wire and says not to cut it but to replace as a whole.

 

I'm not certain where to source those ends, but they are available. I just got a wire harness from Centech and it has new ends for the instrument panel clip. I found the ends (I think) for the turn signal switch, as the TS switch I bought from Dennis carpenter had different length wires, and I want to correct that.
look at
clipsandfasteners.com

 

ok I'll look around. I dont mind buying something that will fix this forever or at least till I need to source a new plastic instrument cluster assembly. I have read all about the 80s van plastic swap and plan to do that after I get everything the rats got to fixed. Fortunately this isn't a rat problem as much as a worn out connector.

 

The wire terminals are available:
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Pr...=D5AB-14474-FA
The plastic connector shell P/N is:
panel with warning lights: D3AZ-14489-C
Panel with gauges: D4ZZ-14489-B