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Even if the shorter one worked for me, I think the weight would be an issue as I like to take mine in and out a lot. As to the Ford adapter, I realize that any of their hitches work with it. However, it's only rated to 20k so logic would dictate that no matter which of their hitches was mounted to it, their rating would be lowered to 20k. A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. I'm over 20k so I guess that wouldn't work for me either. I have an air ride pinbox so that will have to do... Thanks for the info though!
Rodney,
I checked my adapter and the sticker says 25,000 lb. Gross Trailer Weight and a Gross Pin Weight of 6250.
I called Trailer Saver and they did not realize that their website had never been changed. They said it will be very soon.
Bigdon68
Did the 3" risers allow you to ride level? I've got a 36 TKSB4 with a 2017 DRW 350 and I'm nose high, but not sure how much. I have the Curt 24 hitch set at 15" and about 5" clearance at the tailgate with the trailer cowling. Our DRV has the Lippert Trailair Centerpoint suspension and I was thinking of installing the Lippert alignment calibration kit which raises it 2". With your 3" riser install, did they just add a 3" channel iron underneath and add new shackle brackets? I'm afraid my nose high situation is causing the "chucking" I'm feeling, pretty much all the time. My wife's not happy with the ride at all and I'm trying to save divorce quickly... I'd appreciate your help with this.
DRV can install a 2" spacer at build time. You can't "flip" the axles, at least on mine there are no traditional trailer axles it's the MORryde Independent Suspension System. The spacer can be added after the fact but you need to take it to the MORryde factory.
I have a 2014 Lexington and a 2018 F450 and it pulls level without any modifications using a TS3 hitch.
I've read it a few times worded different ways and it still rings true when I read posts like Donald's. The 150 is a passenger vehicle that can also tow/haul. The SD is a tow/haul vehicle that can also move passengers.
Are any of you DRV owners having any clearance issues with the bedrails and pin box when making tight turns? I have a '16 DRV 38RSSA with 2" riser, and 2017 F350 DRW 4x4 with TS3 and 3" spacer. When making tight turns, the pin box many times hits my tonneau frame which clamps inside the bedrail (Truxedo X15). I have the pin box dropped down 1 hole which makes the front of the fiver about 1" higher than the rear. I'd like to move the pin box back up because I can only get 5 bolts on each side in the dropped position.
You have the 2" riser on the trailer, looks like it could use 2 more inches.
I have a TS3 and Truck covers roller cover. The pin box on my current trailer will hit the side channels if I am not careful.
To minimize it I removed the bolt that limits the TS3 height and lengthened it. I also use an Airlift wireless controller to control the amount of air in the bags. When needed I max the bags out at 100 psi.
Doing this cut my bedrail - pinbox inference down maybe 90%
Originally Posted by mr176
Are any of you DRV owners having any clearance issues with the bedrails and pin box when making tight turns? I have a '16 DRV 38RSSA with 2" riser, and 2017 F350 DRW 4x4 with TS3 and 3" spacer. When making tight turns, the pin box many times hits my tonneau frame which clamps inside the bedrail (Truxedo X15). I have the pin box dropped down 1 hole which makes the front of the fiver about 1" higher than the rear. I'd like to move the pin box back up because I can only get 5 bolts on each side in the dropped position.
I plan on weighing the individual axles this spring to see how uneven I am. I'm already 13'5" tall so I really don't want to get much taller. Hitch inflation is my current plan as well. Thanks.
mr176,
I have a '15RSSA on my '17 450--no hits on the Retrax cover rails. It is usually the rear of the flange on the side plate on the pin box that hits. Look at that plate closely--the flange can be cut at the rear and will miss the cover rail. Also, on my Morryde pin, the outside plate is not a part of the box itself, and it could be removed and the flange completely cut off. Check the rear of the pin box outside plate and watch it closely when in a tight turn--you can see what needs to be chopped off to miss the rails.
Since yours is a '16, might be different from a '15...
10-19-2016, 10:40 AM
