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rear tank install question(s)

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  #1  
Old 08-13-2016 | 07:41 AM
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SteveH123
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rear tank install question(s)

Good morning, everyone;

First off, I would like to briefly thank all the "regulars" on this forum that clearly have a wealth of knowledge, but also an obvious love for these old trucks. It's because of you all that this forum is literally an "every morning" stop for me- I love it!

I have a 1977 F250 with dual fuel tanks: midship and rear. I am replacing the rear tank, which rusted through in many places. The tank switch valve that is mounted beside the midship tank has definitely seen better days (i.e. it's all rusted up).

I would like to simply bypass the valve and run the rear tank as the sole tank on the vehicle. I assume this is as simple as running a hose in place of the valve, from the rear tank line on up to the pump. Is there anything in the dual fuel set-up that would prevent this, or that I otherwise need to be aware of/address in order to accomplish this?

Also, if anyone has some nuggets of advice on installing a new tank (19 gallon steel-I've primed and undercoated it) in the rear, please pass them on. The original tank was a PAIN to get out-mostly due to rusty, crusty hardware (which I will be replacing with new).

Thanks in advance!
 
  #2  
Old 08-13-2016 | 08:27 AM
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john jamieson
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From: tucson
You may want to check how the sending unit reads with the tank on the ground first incase it reads way off.
 
  #3  
Old 08-13-2016 | 08:38 AM
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ronspolv
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I purchased original Ford tank bottom straps from Mac's for about the same price as the repo's, so I think Ford still makes them. I lined the top of the tank where the straps go with a ribbed rubber spring liner I also got from Macs, I adhesive glued it to the tank top. When you go to put the tank in, loosen the top strap bolts up a bit, it helps get the bottom straps located properly. Make sure you clean the threads of the upper straps good with a wire brush, and run a die down the threads with some never seize before trying to loosen them. You might want to put some heat to the nuts as well.
 
  #4  
Old 08-13-2016 | 09:29 AM
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84espy
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Welcome to FTE where you will get all kinds of good advice and ideas for your truck. As for the tank install, replace any of the rubber hose you find at this time. Does the new tank come with a new sending unit/suction tube? If so, make sure the suction tube is the same size as the one on there now. Check all wiring at the tank and make necessary repairs. When I did mine, it took approx. 2 hours for the install. You get a head start since your tank should be empty.
 
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Old 08-13-2016 | 09:44 AM
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hey, guys;

thanks for the replies! i purchased the sending unit and tank from Jeff's bronco gyard. not sure what size suction house was on the original b/c it was rusted/rotted away.
 
  #6  
Old 08-13-2016 | 10:04 AM
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by ronspolv
I purchased original Ford tank bottom straps from Mac's for about the same price as the repo's, so I think Ford still makes them.
- Obsolete -
 
  #7  
Old 08-13-2016 | 10:28 AM
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84espy
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Originally Posted by SteveH123
hey, guys;

thanks for the replies! i purchased the sending unit and tank from Jeff's bronco gyard. not sure what size suction house was on the original b/c it was rusted/rotted away.
Check the hose that comes off the old suction tube. For example, my 460 uses a 3/8 unit. When I purchased my tank, it came with a 5/16 unit.
 
  #8  
Old 08-13-2016 | 10:43 AM
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Mac's p/n for the straps is 48-46036-1. I just bought a pair and they had current Ford P/N stickers on them?
 
  #9  
Old 08-13-2016 | 11:08 AM
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by ronspolv
Mac's p/n for the straps is 48-46036-1. I just bought a pair and they had current Ford P/N stickers on them?
What is the "current" Ford part number on the stickers?
 
  #10  
Old 08-13-2016 | 12:21 PM
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tbear853
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From: Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by SteveH123
I have a 1977 F250 with dual fuel tanks: midship and rear. I am replacing the rear tank, which rusted through in many places. The tank switch valve that is mounted beside the midship tank has definitely seen better days (i.e. it's all rusted up).

I would like to simply bypass the valve and run the rear tank as the sole tank on the vehicle. I assume this is as simple as running a hose in place of the valve, from the rear tank line on up to the pump. Is there anything in the dual fuel set-up that would prevent this, or that I otherwise need to be aware of/address in order to accomplish this?
Should be an easy to accomplish bypass altogether. If not gonna use the front tank, I'd drop it.

My '77 has just the single rear tank but it's a F-150. My BIL had what was my FIL's '77 F250 with dual tanks until the left side frame rail rusted through and broke one day right beside that front most fuel tank.

19 gallons always been enough for me .....
 
  #11  
Old 08-13-2016 | 12:37 PM
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F1TZ-9053-A They fit perfect, maybe a superseded number?
 
  #12  
Old 08-13-2016 | 12:57 PM
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by ronspolv
F1TZ-9053-A They fit perfect, a superseded part number.
F1TZ-9053-A (replaced D3TZ-9092-A & EOTZ-9092-F) .. Strap-Use with Aft Axle Fuel Tank / Obsolete ~ 4 available NOS

Last MSRP: $20.02 / Dealer net cost: $12.01.

1973/96 F100/350 & F(Super Duty) Regular & Super Cab / 1983/97 F350 Crew Cab / 1997 F250 H/D; F350 & F(Super Duty) Regular & Super Cab.
 
  #13  
Old 08-16-2016 | 09:22 PM
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RileyCarroll
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http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...reviews-2.html

Read the last page of this. I had to modify my sending unit because of a return valve that they don't make anymore. This shows you how, if you have two hose ports on your sending unit. If you don't, don't worry about it
 
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