1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Introduction-new powerstroke owner

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  #1  
Old 06-02-2016 | 12:41 PM
renegade_75's Avatar
renegade_75
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Introduction-new powerstroke owner

Hey all, thought I'd show off my new to me Powerstroke dually. It's a 1995 crew cab F350 with 254,000 miles, and E4OD trans. I bought it 4 months ago, and since then I've changed the starter with a Ford reman one, ford CPS(the purplish one), ICP, and rebuilt the oil cooler with the kit from Diesel Orings. The oil cooler was letting a lot of oil into the coolant, so I ended up flushing the cooling system about 10 times before I got all the oil out. Changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the thermostat(with a Motorcraft one), added 4 gallons of fleetcharge, and topped it off with distilled water. I also ordered the dipstick Oring kit from Diesel Orings and tried to fix that leak. The gasket that came in the kit wouldn't fit over the flange that was in the oil pan. I ended up having to take a rattail file and enlarging the inner diameter of the gasket to get it to fit. Then, I couldn't get the new flange nut to start for anything. I was repeatedly able to thread the old nut back on, but not the new one. I ended up using silicone on the gasket and the flange threads, and then reusing the old nut. It was fine and dry for a few days, but it started weeping a little after that. The truck had an AFE intake and filter on it when I got it, but other than that it is stock. I did the CCV mod, just turned the doghouse around, plugged the hole in the intake, and ran a piece of 3/4id heater hose over the brake booster and down next to the tyranny, kinda like a downdraft tube. I need to order the intake boots from Riffraff because the original orange ones are on their last legs. I have a leak in the up pipes, and I think it's worse on the drivers side. I plan on eventually doing bellowed up pipes, but will have to save up some cash for those. My future plans for the truck are to do a 4x4 conversion using a RSK and leaf Springs, and possibly a ZF-6 trans, and a 4" downpipe with a straight exhaust all the was back. In order to achieve the clearance for the 4" downpipe and ZF-6, I was contemplating doing a body lift, but I was wondering how to accomplish raising the front bumper with the RSK bracketry on the front of the frame. Anybody have any experience or insight on doing a body lift one one of these trucks? The truck has a lay down gooseneck ball in the bed that is bolted to a 10" wide piece of 3/8 thick steel plate that is welded across the tops of the frame rails under the bed. In order to retain the hitch with a body lift, I'd probably have to weld up a framework of 3x3"square tube and weld that to the frame where the 3/8 plate is welded now, and then weld the plate back on top of that. My plan is not to build a horsepower monster, just a useful, very reliable, and relatively easy to work on vehicle
 
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2016 | 12:57 PM
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cowmilker08
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From: Avilla, IN


Welcome to the forum! That's a nice looking truck!
 
  #3  
Old 06-02-2016 | 01:20 PM
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Frank250Tank
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Joined: May 2016
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From: Orlando, FL
Love your truck, it's super clean!

How hard was the oil cooler to do? I can see a light sheen of oil in my degas bottle, and I know its due very soon.
 
  #4  
Old 06-02-2016 | 02:17 PM
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Welcome to FTE. That is a nice rig, looks really clean congrats.
 
  #5  
Old 06-02-2016 | 03:37 PM
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Thanks guys! Frank250, the oil cooler turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. After draining the coolant and removing the oil filter, I removed the drivers side front wheel and the fender liner. That allowed pretty good access to the front cooler housing. I did have a 2 foot long extension for my ratchet that made removing the mounting bolts on the front housing very easy. Getting the cooler apart and cleaned up and ready for the new Orings was more of a pain than getting the thing off the truck. My cooler had been neglected for a long time by the previous owner, and the area in the housings where the coolant rings seat was pitted pretty badly. Another forum member here suggested a Permatex brand product, and for the life of me I can't remember what it was called. But it was a paste type metal repair product in a tube like the form a gasket stuff. I just applied it in small amounts and sanded it with a fine emery cloth. It worked great, and saved me the money of buying new ends for the cooler! I lubed the Orings and the inside of the housings very well with grease, and I still had to use a pipe clamp to get the one end on. But it works, and no leaks!
 
  #6  
Old 06-02-2016 | 07:47 PM
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Jarrett Campbell
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
I wonder if that stuff would work on the manifold-up pipe connection? My manifolds are kind of pitted...
 
  #7  
Old 06-02-2016 | 08:01 PM
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fordpride
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From: Livoina,La
That thing is a POS. Where are you located v I'll come take it away so you don't have to deal with it. Jk

Welcome to FTE!
 
  #8  
Old 06-02-2016 | 08:11 PM
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z31freakify
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Just saw he joined 2013, so instead welcome to the OBS brethren.
 
  #9  
Old 06-02-2016 | 08:33 PM
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renegade_75
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Thanks! Ya, I joined in 2013 shortly after I got a 1991 reg cab IDI f250. Because of maritial issues I ended up selling that truck near the end of that year. Have been without a truck until I bought this powerstroke in February. I've always wanted an OBS Powerstroke crew cab, now I get to enjoy my first one!
 
  #10  
Old 06-03-2016 | 11:19 AM
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BBslider001
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Welcome to FTE. Um, there's no "brethren" here last time I checked. It's not the Clan. Welcome!
 
  #11  
Old 06-03-2016 | 12:00 PM
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nossliw
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Originally Posted by renegade_75
Hey all, thought I'd show off my new to me Powerstroke dually. It's a 1995 crew cab F350 with 254,000 miles, and E4OD trans. I bought it 4 months ago, and since then I've changed the starter with a Ford reman one, ford CPS(the purplish one), ICP, and rebuilt the oil cooler with the kit from Diesel Orings. The oil cooler was letting a lot of oil into the coolant, so I ended up flushing the cooling system about 10 times before I got all the oil out. Changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the thermostat(with a Motorcraft one), added 4 gallons of fleetcharge, and topped it off with distilled water. I also ordered the dipstick Oring kit from Diesel Orings and tried to fix that leak. The gasket that came in the kit wouldn't fit over the flange that was in the oil pan. I ended up having to take a rattail file and enlarging the inner diameter of the gasket to get it to fit. Then, I couldn't get the new flange nut to start for anything. I was repeatedly able to thread the old nut back on, but not the new one. I ended up using silicone on the gasket and the flange threads, and then reusing the old nut. It was fine and dry for a few days, but it started weeping a little after that. The truck had an AFE intake and filter on it when I got it, but other than that it is stock. I did the CCV mod, just turned the doghouse around, plugged the hole in the intake, and ran a piece of 3/4id heater hose over the brake booster and down next to the tyranny, kinda like a downdraft tube. I need to order the intake boots from Riffraff because the original orange ones are on their last legs. I have a leak in the up pipes, and I think it's worse on the drivers side. I plan on eventually doing bellowed up pipes, but will have to save up some cash for those. My future plans for the truck are to do a 4x4 conversion using a RSK and leaf Springs, and possibly a ZF-6 trans, and a 4" downpipe with a straight exhaust all the was back. In order to achieve the clearance for the 4" downpipe and ZF-6, I was contemplating doing a body lift, but I was wondering how to accomplish raising the front bumper with the RSK bracketry on the front of the frame. Anybody have any experience or insight on doing a body lift one one of these trucks? The truck has a lay down gooseneck ball in the bed that is bolted to a 10" wide piece of 3/8 thick steel plate that is welded across the tops of the frame rails under the bed. In order to retain the hitch with a body lift, I'd probably have to weld up a framework of 3x3"square tube and weld that to the frame where the 3/8 plate is welded now, and then weld the plate back on top of that. My plan is not to build a horsepower monster, just a useful, very reliable, and relatively easy to work on vehicle
Very clean looking truck! interior looks superb from that shot!
 
  #12  
Old 06-14-2016 | 03:16 PM
renegade_75's Avatar
renegade_75
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Interior is pretty decent, dash isn't cracked, door panels and seats are pretty good too. The drivers seat is starting to show a little wear, and the lumbar function doesn't work. It could be more comfortable. The drivers door panel had some small issues with the switch housing, but JB weld plastic epoxy putty did seemed to do the trick for that!
 
  #13  
Old 06-14-2016 | 03:33 PM
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Ford Big Rig
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 207
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From: Kingston, TN
Nice truck..
 
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