Hey guys,

Before I start, I have been doing a lot of searching and research. A lot of the very detailed posts/threads are a few years old... But, I'm still adding all good information to my expanding folder of notes.

I wanted to give a shout out and start a thread because my injectors will be here this week. Thanks in advance!

I'm driving an '04 F250. One injector is totally shot and three others (4,6,7) failed buzz test and ensuing scan and contribution showed all injectors functioning below spec's. Compression is good. Scary part is these are alliant power remans that were installed 6 months ago. So, I'm fixin to do it myself this time and do anything and everything to help avoid this happening in the future. I have Motorcraft OEM remans on the way and I'm looking for any advice/suggestions for additional work and parts replacement. As well as, which brands/manufacturer have worked or have good reputations. There is so much out there!
At the least, I'm planning on the following -
- egr delete (I live in a rural county that doesn't require emissions)
- coolant filtration system
- ford blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit

I'm considering -
- SCT X4 power flash programmer
- fuel/air separation kit
- bullet proof oil cooler

Also, any opinions on the packages that a lot of companies are selling? For example, some include egr delete, coolant filtration, fuel pressure regulator kit, and others include everything from turbo intercooler pipe and boot kit, oil cooler, gaskets, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help/opinions/suggestions!

 

Several things come to mind. First, watch the You Tube videos put out by Diesel Tech Ron on injector replacement. A great way to avoid pitfalls.
Removing the ficm is a little bit of a challenge, learning how to disconnect can be very frustrating.
Using an 18 or 19mm socket to push down and release the clips to disconnect the wiring harness. Reconnect that harness Before you replace the valve cover back on. If not clipped on properly and it falls back inside, you have to remove the valve cover again.
Proper torque of the injector hold down bolt is critical. Vasoline the o rings before installing. Fill the oil rail back up as much as possible to avoid a long restarting process and burn up your starter. Take your time and be patient.

I have installed the Blue Spring after 3 injector failures and added a coolant filter a couple of years ago. Both of which appear essential to these 6.0's.

You might pull your turbo apart and check the unison ring as long as you've got things apart. If you haven't done this already, you will before long.

 

X2, I'd replace the injector hold downs since you had a repeat failure pretty quick after a repair, it doesn't take much to stretch the bolt.

CDI makes a great torque wrench:


The key is accuracy in the correct range on the scale, just because a wrench goes down to the correct value doesn't mean it's accurate there. This one is certified to +/-3% at the correct value.
I used the IPR Gen 2 delete with solid up-pipe, but I don't think that works with the BPD oil cooler.

 

Thanks. Everything is apart and out. Except the turbo but I will take it out too. I saw on bulletproofs website (I think) that they sell a set of standard upgrade/maintenance items that they do when installing a system. One item is an upgraded oil drain tube. Honestly, I really won't know what to look for in the turbo. But, I think it's a good idea to do as much as possible considering how much work/time I'm putting in and everything is accessible. Thanks

 

Thanks, I was extremely concerned about getting proper torque - the tolerances are so exact. Ordered. Any suggestions on a particular brand of hold downs? Seems like it's a basic enough part that any decent vendor will get it right?

 

Like I said, I have everything apart and out. Ran into a very scary situation. The valve cover bolts on the driver's side are stripped. Took forever to get them out. Definitely explains the oil leaking after the "new" injectors were installed. And, here's the bad part - when I say stripped, it turns out that it's not just the bolts that are trashed, it's the threads in the holes! If this was a different situation, the solution would be to weld, drill/tap. Clearly, I can't do that without pulling the engine out. FAK! Only thing I can think to try is, try to rethread/tap the holes for a slightly larger bolt and pray for best. Unreal. Also, I was wondering about the injector cups. If they need to be replaced, will it be obvious? Thanks again guys!

 

Are things to where you don't think you could chase the threads first? Man, that's a sinking feeling for sure. You should have more room on the drivers side.
I would really try that first and be vigilant. It will be a manual job as you know, but thats what I would attempt first.
Keep us posted

 

No Need for new hold down bolts 26 ft lbs is not going to stretch the bolts, on the 03 the torque spec is 24 ft lbs on the later engines it is 26 ft lbs some builders go to 28 ft lbs so just about any click style wrench is fine, You will need to get a 2" Torx for the hold downs so it clears the injector I use these and they work perfect
Clean out the injector bolt holes and than clean them again this will insure proper torque any oil in the hole can cause you problems. I use carb cleaner than compressed air. As far as the stripped bolts you have 2 choices you can get a helicoil kit but you might have problems drilling unless you have a 90 degree drill, the other option is get longer bolts and I have done that and it has worked well just make sure to not over torque them. Good luck it really is not hard just take your time and work CLEAN.

 

Well, that's the thing. Someone (the shop that did the injectors, I'm sure) already spent time trying to make them work. There was locktite (and whatever else) residue. I think they crossed threaded them, made it worse, finally gave up and tried to basically glue it back together. I hear you though, my first effort will be to try to make it work but by the looks of things.... Not happening. Ugh.

 

Jack the transmission up to tilt the engine to give you more room. Happens all the time man in much tighter positions. Tap for the next size bigger and just live with the bigger bolts brother. You could try chasing them first to see if there is anything left. At the end of the day, if neither of those make you feel comfortable, they do make special drills that reach in tight spots and you could drill it out and put in a helicoil. Let us know and take some pictures man. Us Internet Machinists know best LOL.

 

Exactly, it's really tight towards the cab. I was wondering how I could create some room (without a sawzall - that's how us contractors think) I will see what I can do about jacking it up. I'm fine with bigger bolts, helicoil - anything to get it tight. Whatever they did the first time didn't work. It was leaking oil immediately. You think I can create enough room to drill and tap it, huh? Cool. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. And, tomorrow is the big day to find out if they're going to do anything to help... Thanks for the pointers.

 

Might be worth giving the thread repair compound a try.

I have not ever used this stuff. Some guys have put a stud
in place of the lower bolts. You could use this and studs. That way
your not removing it all the time.




Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

If I couldn't re-tap, I'd use the resin method of repair since it's just a valve cover.
There's some good epoxy out there used for various construction trades.

Valve cover torque values shouldn't be an issue with epoxy.
Should work.

 

Man, I could see someone screwing up one bolt being careless, but multiple brings things to another level of incompetence.

As mentioned, I've used longer bolts in threaded holes when one of my staff came into the office with a heavy heart. I've also installed studs in place reinforced with good high temperature epoxy, and this should be a good application for that as you lift off the covers. You just have to make sure you clean the existing hole and stud very well.

 

just because removing bolts with an impact tool is fast, reinstalling them with the same tool is just plain lazy and unprofessional.
A seasoned (and usually Flat Rate) mechanic with a deft hand can use an impact during installation, evidently the guy who stripped the bolts wasn't one. Maybe the guy in the next bay over.
I never allow anyone to wrench on my rig unless at gunpoint.