That is correct.

 

Yes, but a blown STC fitting or sufficiently horrible issues with standpipes/dummy plug leaks can result in the inability to hit 500psi even when cold. Things typically manifest themselves as no start hot and stumbling right when you are in the early stages of overdrive (45-55mph) and just trying to maintain speed up a slight grade (i.e. when you place a load on the engine at low RPM's when the HPOP isn't spinning fast enough). That said, your 1.6 is plenty.

Have you tried unseating and reseating the FICM plugs? If not, take the opportunity to GENTLY tug on each of the wires feeding each of the three plugs when you unplug it again, just to verify that you've got no movement. It would also be a good time to ensure that no pins got bent in the module during install.

 

Late 04s have the old hpop and do not have the stc fitting. You also don't hear of DP and SP problems with the late 04, but they do have them. Maybe the hpop fail too often and hide the DP and DP issue.

If previous posters are correct, your icp voltage appears to be doing strange things. I have not double checked those voltages to see. However, with the icp unplugged it still doesn't start.

So, verify your icpv koeo and during start. Post the pressure too.

I am leaning to the ipr or the hpop .... because it's a late 2004. Pull ipr and inspect, then do an air test and see it the air comes from the hpop.

Hpop not bad to change after pulling turbo.

 

ICPV are consistent KOEO .2 Cranking 1.6
HPOP PSI 900-1000

I removed the FICM this morning and double check the connection and wiring everything seems good. I have pulled the batteries, I'm going to take them to get load tested. I'm hoping there bad and that is the problem. I will update later today.

 

Weak batteries, while they kill FICM's, won't cause a no-start unless the motor is spinning over too slowly to cause sync to occur. Do you have something like a ScanGauge II? That would help immensely. We sell them pre-programmed for the 6.0 if that would help.

You've checked all fuses, etc? Understanding that you have proper FICM voltage and you hear the injectors buzzing KOEO, it's still worth unseating and reseating the FICM relay under hood by the driver side hinge, doing the same with the 10 amp logic fuse that is right there, and doing the same with the likely 50 amp FICM (sometimes marked as an IDM) fuse under the dash or under the hood (check your owners manual for exact location).

Keep us posted!

 

Hmm...I thought that the late build 2004 1/2 used the problematic dummy plugs and standpipes, had an aluminum hpop cover with cast iron hpop, had the icp sensor in the right valve cover and used the stc fitting - essentially exactly like the 05 and up models.

Am I mistaken?

 

First off I would like to think everyone for there guidance and assistance.

Went to Ford and had the batteries test. One tested with a bad cell the other needed charged and retested. I choose to replace both didn't what to chance it. Funny thing is they would charge and read 12.9v. And usually the charger I use will let me know when a battery is bad. It never did.

Install them in the truck and it fired right up with out any hesitation. I glad I consultant the experts on this web site before throwing a bunch of parts and money at the truck. With everyone help and the Torque app (which I would recommend) providing all the information y'all requested we got it fixed.

Now the hard part, wife suggested replacing them at first. I guess I'll tell her what fixed it she going to find out anyway.

Thank again to everyone!

 

As Ed said, I didn't realize weak batteries would cause a no start short of not spinning fast enough.

Just tell the wife, because she is obviously so good at it, she gets to fix it next time.

 

All true except late 2004 has the old style hpop and thus no stc. However, I think my late 04 has a cast iron hpop cover. I'll check this evening.

The late 04s do have the SP and DP, but you rarely hear of them failing in this model.

 

Crazy. Do you recall what your voltages were dipping to during cranking with the old batteries? Your original post showed '12V' KOEO - a normal number is certainly in the 11.9 to 12.1 volt range.

Regardless, glad you're up and running!

 

From memory I would have to say it was in the low 11's just not sure. The 12.9 was check at the batteries directly with a volt meter after charge. The 12V KOEO stated before was from the Torque app it may had 12.X and I did specify. Now I know the importance of precise measurements when working on these trucks.

Thanks I glad as well.