That's a great idea. I know sometimes rotors have threaded holes in them that you can screw a bolt in from the outside which then presses on to the hub. Problem is, not sure if the OP ones has those and usually by the time they are rusted on, those holes are rusted so bad they are worthless.

 

The video is from a guy on here (A/Ox4) that did that on his 02-ish Super Duty. Should work fine for the OP to use the nut and bolt method, if something in the parking brake isn't what's keeping it on.

 

Can you spin the rotors yet?

As for grease, like mentioned get dedicated brake lube.

I use:


For getting the old rotors off try a regular hammer and hit the face of it between the studs DON'T HIT THE STUDS! Put some rubber line over the studs if you can't swing a hammer strait. Yes I know it is hammering on the rotors the opposite way of they way you want them to move BUT it shocks the rotor and helps break it loose! Has been working for me for 20+ years and how I was taught in school to do it.

If all else fails I would sometimes pull the whole hub off and repeatedly drop the whole assembly on a cement pad until they separate. However this way you will need to replace the inner axle seal and add back a little rear diff fluid.

Also lots of times a lip forms on the inside of the drum which hangs up on the brake shoes and won't allow the rotor/drum to come off. I am not sure if the ebrake has an adjuster like the older time drum brakes but if there is adjust the shoes all the way down (threw backing plate). You can tell if you have THIS problem if the rotor/drum won't turn.

 

can anyone recommend a good pneumatic brand? Are the air tools at harbor freight worth a try for a DIYer?

 

with the parking brake off I am able to spin the rotors......the only part of the rotor I could smack is the face of the rotor..which is fine because I intend on replacing them...anyhow.....I've smacked them with a 10lb sledgehammer and nothing.....I don't know what else to do.....

 

Spray pb blaster from behind and around all the lug holes

 

You can't get a mini sledge against the back of the rotor? I find smacking the face to shock them followed by a couple good whacks on the back get even the most stubborn rotor off.

 

thank heaven....I busted them loose...it took a combination of a deadblow and a sledge....before those things broke loose...I was wondering can I spray the studs.....the parking brake mechanism with brake clean since those areas are exposed.....also....when putting the new rotors on would you spray the inside with some sort of anti-seize lube??

 

I usually paint the inside of the brake hat face with anti-seize.

 

Yes you can use anti-seeze on the inside of the rotor. Permatex makes a paste type anti-seeze, you "paint" it on with a brush. Apply a very thin coat to the inside of the rotor where the rotor makes metal to metal contact with the hub.
I do this operation to all of my brake rotors and never have trouble removing them, this even after winters of heavy road salting.
Almost forgot, make sure you clean up your hubs to remove the rust and scale, wire brush or if necessary a light emery cloth. You need the hubs to be clean and flat so the new rotors sit flush.

 

There's an aluminum spacer that was attached to the hat of the rotor...Do I need to use those? They're rusted and corroded......

 

Rusty aluminum....that's unpossible.

 

aluminum spacer...? doesnt sound factory, sounds like a cheap wheel spacer

 

I am assuming the spacers are used to extend the tires out a bit from the fender wells...not sure....I put them back on over the hub......