6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Head Studs

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  #16  
Old 03-26-2013 | 05:31 PM
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cheezit
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dan there is a lot of meat on that piston, ive been down the road before, customers dont always want stuff fixed so you have to make it roll on way or the other.
sir its 15k for a motor or we can try a new stick for 800 and see what happens. not realy hard to figure out what way its going to go
 
  #17  
Old 03-26-2013 | 06:16 PM
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yikes. Well I guess we know what happened on this one: slam a new stick in it and sell it before something does happen...

I can't seem to download the full size pic of the piston top, but take a closer look -- nothing hit the turbo because I think it's still in the piston! That's just what it looks like to me...

cheezit: you've been there and back more times than most, but once you've opened it and saw this you'd really still run that piston? I guess I gotta' go with the expert if that's the case...
 
  #18  
Old 03-26-2013 | 07:21 PM
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I would look at it make sure I saw no cracks. file down the edges and run it... If I had to, I hate to say some of the stuff ford has had us do on this engine... funny thing is they ran.
if there was a compression test done prior it would make things easer on the mind.
now all that said if your not sure then repalce the piston, rings and rod its not that much more work

were is Tim iirc I think hes seen a few this way running.
 
  #19  
Old 03-26-2013 | 09:04 PM
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Is the Pic of the Head the same cylinder shown????


Something Beat it up

The Piston and head are beat

Usually when inject blows a tip they are Alot Worse Beat

so could this be from a Glow Plug Cheezit???Mike???

I have NOT seen a pic of head/piston that a Glow Plug broke off and bounced around
 
  #20  
Old 03-26-2013 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CC'sDad
Well I dove in head first and have hit a snag. Need Help/ Advice. Check out these pictures and help me decide the next step. I have only owned the truck for a little over 3 months and don't know how this happened. The previous owner said the only things he had done where injectors replaced by dealer. There is no evedence of onything hitting the turbo that I con find. I was trying to get this done for a spring break trip hauling the camper this coming friday.

BOY Dont that GLOW PLUG shure Look SHINEY NEW in this PIC

Injector Looks like it has some AGE to it its got soot on it

Id say Look at the Other Glow Plugs but they could have changed them ALL IDK

Hows the other GP look???
 
  #21  
Old 03-26-2013 | 09:59 PM
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Hey I was just talking with Anthony and he said something about how far the Glow Plug Poked out the Head

He Could be Onto something

There are 2 diffrent Lengths of Glow Plugs for these IIRC I forgot about it till he mentioned it

Maybe the Previous owner installed the wrong length GP in it

The GP in the Pic Looks so New I wonder if the Dealer put the right one in it

Just the Glow Plug in the Pic looks Brand NEW To me
 
  #22  
Old 03-26-2013 | 10:30 PM
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All I know is the glow plug harness is new on both banks, so that would lead me to think they where all replaced? I am sure that injector has been replaced due to the wires are still bright, where the rest are faded.
 
  #23  
Old 03-26-2013 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CC'sDad
All I know is the glow plug harness is new on both banks, so that would lead me to think they where all replaced? I am sure that injector has been replaced due to the wires are still bright, where the rest are faded.


Thats kinda what I thought

Are All the cylinders in the same condition as the one in the Pic???



My guess is an injector went bad

The Previous owner thought it was the Glow Plugs so they changed all the GP

Got it back together and still had the same problem

at this point they took to the Dealer where the dealer diagnosed a Bad Injector and replaced it

Usually they have Lots more Witness Marks so they must have shhut it down Fast when it all went down

You may need a new head

Definatly would want to make shure the valves are sealing good before you put the head back on

Do a thuro check of everything in Cheezits post
 
  #24  
Old 03-27-2013 | 07:45 AM
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As long as the piston is ok, rings are not pinched, and cylinder wall is fine...... I'd run it. We have run pistons like that in 1500hp race motors. I agree the valves need to be checked! If the stems are tweaked it'll not seal and eat the guides up in a hurry!
 
  #25  
Old 03-27-2013 | 08:04 AM
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I would see if the valves are leaking (little colored solvent in the intake/exhaust passages, see if it leaks out). If that passes, I would bring the piston to TDC, take a scraper (I use a sharp wood chisel with the corners of the blade rounded off) and I would massage off the sharp bits on top of the piston. Go in towards the center, vacuum up the bits, get it fairly smooth - the point is to eliminate hot spots from sharp bits on the piston. Then I would put it back together and run it. For me, the choice is basically a major rebuild vs taking a bit of a chance. If it was running well before with that in it and you didn't know, it should run well after with new head gaskets.

Brian
 
  #26  
Old 03-27-2013 | 05:33 PM
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sure it could be from a glowplug, no realy way to know. look at the injector though, is the plastic retainer grey or black? bloack would be oem, grey would be reman
 
  #27  
Old 03-27-2013 | 11:22 PM
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whats with all the damage in the valve pic , lower right valve looks chiped and caused more damage there big black mark also.is it to late todo a compression test or did the OP remove the heads already.
 
  #28  
Old 03-28-2013 | 05:12 PM
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looks like chiping around the seat. that should be inspected closely by removing the valve after making sure the seat does not leak.
 
  #29  
Old 04-11-2013 | 07:29 AM
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Well I checked over the piston really good and the cylinder wall and was satisfied that it ran befor with no problems so it should continue. Didn't have a way to check the valve seat, but checked it out the best I could and put it all back together. I will get it to a shop to check compresion later on. I have now put 1500 miles on it since the tear down and all seems to run fine. 600 of that towing around 15,000lbs. Well after changing out the rear v band clamp on the turbo (long story I will get to that later). I am getting a P1000 code. OBD test not complete. I am running a tuner. I clear it and its back instantly. Any ideas on this?
 
  #30  
Old 04-11-2013 | 07:37 AM
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That is from having the batteries disconnected and or changing tunes and will clear after enough drive cycles.
 


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