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Electric Fans for Dumbies

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  #1  
Old 08-14-2012 | 06:58 PM
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Electric Fans for Dumbies

OK, I'm on the 3G 130 Amp alternator bandwagon. Mine should be here by the end of the week, courtesy of BlueOvalDismantlers.

This now means I can put in a Thunderbird/Mark VIII cooling fan. I found a couple threads on the subject but they seem more like a buddy discussion about how they themselves did it and not a cohesive how-to write up. This is cool but I need a little more of the latter than the former.

My search-fu isn't that developed on this site so if there is a step by step write up I would appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction.

I've started a new thread rather than ask questions on the other threads mentioned so other noobs and dumbies wont need to be confused by some of the banter that has gone on in order to get to the nitty-gritty so to speak.

So I'm supplying the Dumbie (me ) complete with stupid questions and confusing replies and I'm hoping you good folks will supply the know how.

Here's what I'd like to do and/or what I've gathered so far.

-I want a 2 spd fan out of like a '92-95 T-bird or Mk VIII. {edit; don't forget about the Merc Cougar}

-I'd like the fan to be completely self regulating. I don't want to have to worry about if and when it turns on and off, at least when the key is on.

**I see one or more have just wired switches of some sort into the cab and they will turn it on manually. Not interested in this.

-When I find a donor vehicle how much of the wiring should I take and what relays, boxes, fuses, sending units/ sensors, little green men, fairies, etc. should I grab?

-Being a gunsmith, I'm pretty good at fabricating useless bits of junk into slightly more useful bits of junk. I don't have any welding equipment at my disposal but I'm creative enough to really not need it without anything becoming ghetto. I can solder but I hate it and I'd probably do splices with butt crimps and electrical tape unless there is a good reason not to.

You guys have been awesome and have helped my tons both directly and indirectly. Thanks in advance.

BTW, the last time I was tinkering with the truck I noticed that the radiator might be seeping out of the top above the lip, I'm sure this is a sign of impending failure. I just popped onto a local classified and there is a '79 F-350 radiator on there. Should I jump on it and change that out while I'm doing the fan mod or do you think I should wait and get a new one?
 
  #2  
Old 08-14-2012 | 11:01 PM
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Thumbs up fan

Govtmod, This is what I did for my 67 XL 32 valve. I have a 2 speed fan that is controlled from the ac fan switch going through a 300 amp (over kill) power relay coming off the 130 alternator to the high speed side of the fan. When I shift into 5th gear a micro switch mounted inside the console that the shifter hits kills the ground to the power relay. If the ac is not on and the engine heats up the computer turns on the low speed side. In your case you can control the fan with temprature sensitive senders to a high amp relay. I do not think you need both speeds in your setup. Idiling in traffic with the ac on it has never gone past 205 on 100 degree days. I used #8 gauge wires crimped,soldered and shrink wrapped, I am a strong believer in "BULLET PROOF" Good Luck
Kenny
 
  #3  
Old 08-15-2012 | 01:45 AM
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  #4  
Old 08-15-2012 | 07:44 AM
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Kenny, I think my set up is just a bit to dissimilar at least for me to figure out.

HIO, those links are probably exactly what I needed. I'll study them good.

I might be back with some follow-up dumb questions.
 
  #5  
Old 08-16-2012 | 07:58 AM
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OK,

I read through those links and I think it's something I can do. I like the kit in the the last link. Is there a way I can replicate it from stuff I can find at the wrecking yards w/o paying the $145 price tag? I'm on a tight budget and that is a bit steep for me right now.

I definitely need it, my temp gauge was all the way up to the top of normal while I was stopped in traffic on my way home yesterday. No load, just dodging through neighborhoods avoiding construction and congestion, weather in the high 90s. I did talk the guy with the F350 radiator down to $50 and I just have to make arrangements to get it from him. The F350 radiator should, if I'm not mistaken, be a HD 3 row radiator which will help.

My next worry is finding the fan, I have only one self serve lot in the area listing a Cougar in correct year range and it probably will be gone. I guess next great adventure is calling around to the standard wrecking yards and finding what I need.
 
  #6  
Old 08-16-2012 | 09:05 AM
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GOVTMOD, Do not despair, two speed fans were also on Crown Vics,Merc. Marquis,& Town cars. You can cut the fan section from the shrouds. That is what I did and it was almost the same size as the 67 shroud. I used 3/4" foam rubber tape to make up the difference. Also the fan motors are available as replacements from NAPA. As in my previous thread it works great. So far 20k miles with no problem. also my 68 Ranger 429 set up has a f350 ambulance radiator with a viscous fan clutch and shroud. Needless to say it keeps it under control.
Kenny
 
  #7  
Old 08-16-2012 | 09:40 AM
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I didn't know that there was a 1-speed Mark VIII fan and a 2-speed Mark VIII fan... interesting...

After reading through all of those threads/sites HIO posted up, one thing comes to mind...

Ford knows how to do it right if Chevy vehicles are made up Ford parts

Like the one link said... "The Ford 9" rear-end. The Mark VIII electric fan. Ford knows how to do it right."
 
  #8  
Old 08-16-2012 | 02:34 PM
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Crown Vic! I'll bet you the 5.8 police interceptor is the same or similar fan!

Didn't thunk of that.
 
  #9  
Old 08-16-2012 | 06:58 PM
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Here is some pictures of the fan and schroud I made for my 75 the rad,is the original one that came in the truck when my dad got it new.the fan came out of a ford mark.and made the schoud my self and adapted a hayden controler with adjustable temp.with the ford contoler.


flat bed come in handy some times




Hope this helps some.

Dale
 
  #10  
Old 08-16-2012 | 07:50 PM
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Govtmod, The police interceptors from 92 to 02 used single speed fan along with an engine driven fan, from 03 to present all the big Fords, Mercs and Lincolns had the fans and shrouds as 1 piece. Real easy to find.
Kenny
 
  #11  
Old 08-16-2012 | 08:16 PM
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if you are overheating, do you have a shroud and a properly functioning mechanical clutch fan? I mean generally the electric fan is considered a "performance" upgrade, in that you aren't losing hp by spinning the fan. In actuality, the alternator is harder to spin the greater the draw on it, so by running an electric fan you are losing something close to an equivilant amount of HP when it draws power off the alt. For drag racing they are good because they can run off the battery, but when run continuously they will draw down the alt and you will lose pretty close to the same power you "gain" by ditching the mechanical fan. Just something to consider.

As far as cooling capacity goes, the stock shroud and mechanical clutch fan are capable of drawing something like 8500-10000 cfm. An extended cooling or super cooling radiator should be adequate to cool most motors.

Most electric fan kits are about half that cfm, but then again they can run at high speed at idle, whereas a clutch fan will not be running at max cfm at idle.

My point in all this is that if you are overheating, you need to make sure what you have is in operating condition, because an electric fan is no fix all for cooling problems. I'd also check the water pump for proper operation, and check your thermostat.
 
  #12  
Old 08-16-2012 | 08:54 PM
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Perky,

You have my attention. I don't think I need the custom shroud but I'll keep it in mind. Could you elaborate on how you hooked it up and what you used and where you got it?

Kenny,

I didn't know about the Crown Vic system. Maybe that won't be an option.

Hasteranger,

Having a 130 alt probably won't work as hard as some others especially since I don't have any other high draw items, not even a radio at the moment. Also it would only run when needed. My fan is a direct drive non clutch unit with a good condition well fitting shroud.

It has occurred to me that I might have some issues with my water pump and I have strong indications that my thermostat is either missing or stuck open. I figured I'd address those as well.
 
  #13  
Old 08-16-2012 | 09:14 PM
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the 130 amp alternator is harder to spin all the time, and just as hard to spin for a given amount of power. There is no free power. What youre saying would be like suggesting you power your truck with an electric motor and power that from a windmill on the hood, if that makes sense. Nothing is 100% efficient so it doesn't work.

I'd check your water pump and definitely replace the thermostat if its suspect. Do you have a working temp gauge to verify that its overheating?


A clutch fan is a better setup than a direct drive fan because it will be less of a drag at higher rpms so it can free up power.

If it was my truck I'd want to figure out why it was overheating and fix that before switching to electric fans.
 
  #14  
Old 08-17-2012 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hasteranger
the 130 amp alternator is harder to spin all the time, and just as hard to spin for a given amount of power. There is no free power. What youre saying would be like suggesting you power your truck with an electric motor and power that from a windmill on the hood, if that makes sense. Nothing is 100% efficient so it doesn't work.

I'd check your water pump and definitely replace the thermostat if its suspect. Do you have a working temp gauge to verify that its overheating?


A clutch fan is a better setup than a direct drive fan because it will be less of a drag at higher rpms so it can free up power.

If it was my truck I'd want to figure out why it was overheating and fix that before switching to electric fans.
Points taken, depending on how long it takes me to find a suitable fan I might put a clutch fan on in the interim. The weather here is extremely temperate, as it cools down the fan will more likely be kicking in less and less and would seem to be a plus.

I'm going to do the alternator regardless. The 3G is much more reliable and I wont have to worry about putting anything in that might draw too much current. I'm going to do a few other electrical upgrades like headlight relays as I understand Dent headlight switches like to catch on fire under the dash because the full current is directed through them.

My temp gauge is working and it actually pegged yesterday when I went out to pick up a replacement tailgate I couldn't pass up for the price. I'm pretty sure my radiator is full of crud and corrosion, the one I'm buying will get a thorough cleaning out and going over before it gets installed. I have a spare 351M and I'll pull the pump from it and swap it in and see if that also helps along with a new thermostat.
 
  #15  
Old 08-19-2012 | 01:14 PM
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OK just got back from a few wrecking yards.

No luck on the the fan but I did find a 78 with factory a/c and it still had the fan and clutch and another Dent with an ignition module so I grabbed them both.

I did find a possible electric fan online and I'm following it but I'm not sure I'll end up with it. It doesn't seem to have any wiring and connections. I'll have to find that stuff too or figure out how to build it.

I also ran into an acquaintance yesterday that does some pretty cool rock crawler builds and he made some suggestions on wiring, relays and controllers.

BTW found out why I'm over heating. I have radiator leak that is reaching critical mass. I thought I might have a small crack that was seeping a bit now it's a full out leak at the bottom of the top cap (tank?). Good thing I just got that radiator, I'll put that in with the clutch fan and a new thermostat within the next week.
 


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