Can't get the brakes to bite
#1
Can't get the brakes to bite
So here is the set up that I have in my '74:
'78 Dana 60's front and back with dual caliper discs on the front and a disc conversion on the rear.
Willwood P-Valve for the rears (removed factory block).
All new lines front to rear.
New '78 M/C with a '78 F350 dual diaphram booster.
EBC 6000 series Green pads.
I bled the M/C twice before I put it in and have bled the system several times after installation and still cannot seem to get a hard hit on the system when I push the pedal down. I have a good inch or two of travel in the pedal which I also feel is a little excessive.
One other wierd thing I have noticed over time is that it appears that the small reservoir is loosing fluid as the level drops and the level in the large reservoir rises. Not sure how that is possible.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this thing to make me feel more confident about it's abilitly to stop? I would expect that this thing would stop on a dime if I wanted it to. I only have 33's on it so I can't see where tire size is a problem.
'78 Dana 60's front and back with dual caliper discs on the front and a disc conversion on the rear.
Willwood P-Valve for the rears (removed factory block).
All new lines front to rear.
New '78 M/C with a '78 F350 dual diaphram booster.
EBC 6000 series Green pads.
I bled the M/C twice before I put it in and have bled the system several times after installation and still cannot seem to get a hard hit on the system when I push the pedal down. I have a good inch or two of travel in the pedal which I also feel is a little excessive.
One other wierd thing I have noticed over time is that it appears that the small reservoir is loosing fluid as the level drops and the level in the large reservoir rises. Not sure how that is possible.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this thing to make me feel more confident about it's abilitly to stop? I would expect that this thing would stop on a dime if I wanted it to. I only have 33's on it so I can't see where tire size is a problem.
#4
#5
Here's a nice tech write-up that may be of some assistance...
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
#6
Here's a nice tech write-up that may be of some assistance...
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.
Are your caliper slides free and properly lubricated? I.E. can you push the piston back in its bore, and freely and easily slide the calipers back and forth?
Is your master cyl a disc/disc or a disc/drum?
Any of these things can cause the problem you describe. My all time favorite though was the girl that came in and said her dad just did her brakes a few weeks ago!!!!!! and it wouldnt stop and made a horrible grinding noise. He had installed the metal backing plate as the stopping material. After the new rotors were machined, and the pads replaced, she decided to just not let him do anymore work on her car.
#7
I have a feeling that the issue with the master cylinder losing fluid from one chamber and filling the other may be the source of the problem. All the components are new and working correctly. I have bled the system by pressure and by vacuum and neither made a difference.
The M/C is under warranty so I will have them swap it out and go from there.
The M/C is under warranty so I will have them swap it out and go from there.
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