99 F350 Super Duty Build
#31
Thank you, that's alot to think about. I do understan the basics, but did not think it was that important.
The funny thing about this is that I did hear from a friend today that in Finland it is illegal to weld on this tie rod so I probably have to cut it loose and only try to bolt it with some type of pipe clamps
The funny thing about this is that I did hear from a friend today that in Finland it is illegal to weld on this tie rod so I probably have to cut it loose and only try to bolt it with some type of pipe clamps
It very well could be. It does all kinds of things to the rod when you weld on it from warping to weakening either by making it soft or going the other way and making it to hard and brittle. But it also can be done right, the first step would be finding out what exact metal the rods are made of. Then research the and apply the proper procedure. Almost all the of the time a special procedure is needed heat will be needed. I highly doubt any sort of cooling action would be needed for steering rods but it might be possible.
Or like you mentioned you could just bolt it on. I'm not trying to be a downer or anything, just trying to keep you safe and stuff.
#32
I finally got the steering box tapped today, and it works like a dream, it's almost insane how it feel good now to drive highway speed with the 39,5" x 16,5" Pitbull Rockers
By the way, I did do some really hardcore test on those cylinder mounts and I do know now that something else will brake before the mounts brakes.
The mount on the right side in that one you can lift the hole truck front in the air and it doesn't even bend. I gave the left mount with a hammer and even a sledge hammer, and it barely made any marks. I did not give it with full force with the sledgehammer because of the ball joints and I think the hole tie rod vill bend before the mount brakes. I am going to make some "FAKE" design so it will only look like the left mount would be bolted on even if it is welded.
By the way, I did do some really hardcore test on those cylinder mounts and I do know now that something else will brake before the mounts brakes.
The mount on the right side in that one you can lift the hole truck front in the air and it doesn't even bend. I gave the left mount with a hammer and even a sledge hammer, and it barely made any marks. I did not give it with full force with the sledgehammer because of the ball joints and I think the hole tie rod vill bend before the mount brakes. I am going to make some "FAKE" design so it will only look like the left mount would be bolted on even if it is welded.
#34
#35
yes it also works as damper, and I must say I have never done any mod this useful I am so happy with the outcome, I can't think of any reason to buy a complete kit when this can be done so cheap, the fittings are with 1/4" thread and the hydraulic hoses are 1/4" hydraulic hose that is good for 5800PSI but I know that 2000 PSI would be enough.
I only couldn't find anything else than 5800 PSI hose
Hoses and fittings cost me aprox $140
Cylinder was another $100
then a few hours of work and wola you got your self a hydro assist
I only couldn't find anything else than 5800 PSI hose
Hoses and fittings cost me aprox $140
Cylinder was another $100
then a few hours of work and wola you got your self a hydro assist
#37
#38
Glad you like it
Lets call it ATS steering mod thank you and nice that you like this mod.
Yes it also works as stabilizer, but if you put too big hoses and bigger than 1-1/2" bore cylinder then it could be that your steering will get so light that it would make it difficult to drive in highway speed.
I can't remember what TECTYL I used but yes in aerosol it is.
Yes it also works as stabilizer, but if you put too big hoses and bigger than 1-1/2" bore cylinder then it could be that your steering will get so light that it would make it difficult to drive in highway speed.
I can't remember what TECTYL I used but yes in aerosol it is.
#42
I could not find the orginal pics right now so I can't post them here right now...