3" drop I beams f100
#46
01-13-2007 | 02:16 PM
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 746
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by CACWBY
OK here's some more straight scoop ... and there might be a quiz so listen closely.
If using drop springs and stock axles you can still get camber adjusted (they actually bend the axles with a jack and hold down), and have a little bit lower and good alignment and a little less spring travel, and you may even notice that it's 2" lower. When I did that nobody seemed to notice. But you have to retain stock axles (One Piece Cast Beams-they are not a true I Beam though we all call them that). That is the Key.
You create negative camber with less spring height. If any one did this and didn't, then they probably had too much positive camber to begin with. So if you use shorter springs and intend to do much driving you either have to get the camber corrected or sacrifice some tire wear.
In my area of 300,000 people only One shop will actually do Camber Correction on Beam axles. All shops can do Toe In - Toe Out, but few do the Camber on these trucks.
Now if you use aftermarket Dropped Beams Of either AIM/Chassis Tech, or the only other choice DJM, these are not One Piece Beams, they are welded up steel shapes. AIM's is a welded up I Beam type shape but it is WELDED, and so is the DJM. Now if you go bending them to adjust camber you bust welds, basically the pressure required to adjust camber will break the pieces joined together, and no reputable shop will do this. So Dropped Beams = No Camber Correction.
Now with just Dropped axles you may not need camber adjustment and the AIM/DJM folks claim you shouldn't.
Now you dive in without knowing all this (as I did) and you decide to go as low as you can with Twin Beams, with 3" Dropped Axles and 2" Lowered Springs. Well you now have negative camber , and NO WAY to correct it (short of redesigning the crossmember and the pivot points for the beams, and at that point you might as well be installing a Fatman Fab IFS). So I'm resigned to making sure all other specs dead on (toe In and wheel balance and a steering damper) and living with the early tire wear from my self induced Negative Camber. I am old enough, I paid for it, it's mine and no one can make me raise it back up, so there.
Good Luck ... But these are reasons why - if really into Low you have to Go IFS.
If using drop springs and stock axles you can still get camber adjusted (they actually bend the axles with a jack and hold down), and have a little bit lower and good alignment and a little less spring travel, and you may even notice that it's 2" lower. When I did that nobody seemed to notice. But you have to retain stock axles (One Piece Cast Beams-they are not a true I Beam though we all call them that). That is the Key.
You create negative camber with less spring height. If any one did this and didn't, then they probably had too much positive camber to begin with. So if you use shorter springs and intend to do much driving you either have to get the camber corrected or sacrifice some tire wear.
In my area of 300,000 people only One shop will actually do Camber Correction on Beam axles. All shops can do Toe In - Toe Out, but few do the Camber on these trucks.
Now if you use aftermarket Dropped Beams Of either AIM/Chassis Tech, or the only other choice DJM, these are not One Piece Beams, they are welded up steel shapes. AIM's is a welded up I Beam type shape but it is WELDED, and so is the DJM. Now if you go bending them to adjust camber you bust welds, basically the pressure required to adjust camber will break the pieces joined together, and no reputable shop will do this. So Dropped Beams = No Camber Correction.
Now with just Dropped axles you may not need camber adjustment and the AIM/DJM folks claim you shouldn't.
Now you dive in without knowing all this (as I did) and you decide to go as low as you can with Twin Beams, with 3" Dropped Axles and 2" Lowered Springs. Well you now have negative camber , and NO WAY to correct it (short of redesigning the crossmember and the pivot points for the beams, and at that point you might as well be installing a Fatman Fab IFS). So I'm resigned to making sure all other specs dead on (toe In and wheel balance and a steering damper) and living with the early tire wear from my self induced Negative Camber. I am old enough, I paid for it, it's mine and no one can make me raise it back up, so there.
Good Luck ... But these are reasons why - if really into Low you have to Go IFS.
#48
01-24-2007 | 01:19 PM
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 3
From: "Islander"
On those flat plate aftermarket beams why not get
the ride height established first.
Cut with bandsaw the neccessary amount of wedge material
needed removed.
vee for weld penetration, tack weld, recheck your camber
then weld 'em up.
No weaker than the manufactures assembled and welded flat plate
provided your welds are of quality.
This is what I would do in a heartbeat to correct the problem.
the ride height established first.
Cut with bandsaw the neccessary amount of wedge material
needed removed.
vee for weld penetration, tack weld, recheck your camber
then weld 'em up.
No weaker than the manufactures assembled and welded flat plate
provided your welds are of quality.
This is what I would do in a heartbeat to correct the problem.
#49
01-24-2007 | 03:14 PM
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
From: Western Canada
I used DJM on my 69 (they are square tube not round), 3" drop in th front 4" in the rear had no problem with alignment and have been running them for 4 years. Truck should be going to paint soon and hope to go to the F100 nationals this year its almost an 800 mile trip for me one way, but usually put close to 3000 miles a summer on the truck so I should make it problem free there and back.
#50
02-09-2007 | 09:33 AM
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: texas,earth
Originally Posted by mblayton
I used DJM on my 69 (they are square tube not round), 3" drop in th front 4" in the rear had no problem with alignment and have been running them for 4 years. Truck should be going to paint soon and hope to go to the F100 nationals this year its almost an 800 mile trip for me one way, but usually put close to 3000 miles a summer on the truck so I should make it problem free there and back.
#51
10-08-2007 | 01:56 AM
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
My 65 f-100 is bagged
I just bought a 65 with DJM 3in dropped beams that is bagged . It is C notched 6in with a for link in the rear . it lays cross members in the front . I'm trying to correct a few things that were done to the truck. I'm working on a better mount the bag cups to the beams , also you run into some issues with the steering links , that I'm trying to correct before I post up picks . If you are in the S.f bay area the truck will be at the Cow Palace show in January . It is getting done up in a 60's show car style , a lot of metal flake , and will be on astro supremes
#52
10-08-2007 | 03:24 PM
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 11
From: Northeast LA
Nutty you have to get some pic's up so we can see how you have the bags mounted. There is a thread in the 73-79 section about bagging our trucks. But no one seems to want to post some pics of their bag mounts on the beams. I created a gallery of how I plan to fab up some bag cups to replace my stock springs. I have changed my idea about the top mount using a spacer, I plan to just mount the top bag plate to the stock spring pocket. Anyway pics of your set up would be greatly appreciated!!
#53
10-08-2007 | 05:53 PM
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: sun valley ca
You should just go with a mustang 2 suspension setup. I've used this setup for over
10 years and think its the best way to go.
Check out my pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=25679
10 years and think its the best way to go.
Check out my pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=25679
#54
10-09-2007 | 02:44 AM
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
bag mounts
Give it a month we are designing new mounts , the ones on my truck are bag cups welded on and they suck .I will post picks of the new ones , We are going to come out with a kit to adapt them to a dropped beam and have them be safe and strong! I work at Skoty Chop's Kustoms in Northern California . You can check out some of are work at Ruffrodders.com
#55
10-13-2007 | 02:36 AM
New User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
#56
10-13-2007 | 09:49 PM
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 0
From: Madison, SD
Originally Posted by Marz-68
You should just go with a mustang 2 suspension setup. I've used this setup for over
10 years and think its the best way to go.
Check out my pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=25679
10 years and think its the best way to go.
Check out my pics.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=25679
drop springs
#58
12-03-2007 | 08:44 AM
New User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I was looking at some parts on the internet and came up with an interesting question for everyone. The aftermarket drop beams for a newer ford have ball joints instead of kingpins, could any of these be used to gain the adjustability for alignment. I am sure the length is different bet it couldn't be to hard to relocate a couple of brackets, if you could figure out the correct location.
Has anyone looked into this before?
Has anyone looked into this before?
