Modified B Rear Springs OR Roadmaster Active Suspension
#46
Good to know...on a post somewhere - I think the one about the early models self-destructing as you drive down the road - I thought I read the gap was a quarter...again, learn stuff every day on this forum! Good stuff!!
Have you found running both sway bars that you get tossed around more since both axles have resistance against 'roll'? When I replaced my shot bushings I expected a lot less roll than I'm seeing...but I don't want to make it so stiff that hitting a driveway at a 45 degree angle has the body feeling like it's welded to the frame and tossing us poor occupants around like marbles in a can...
#47
Wow...I wouldn't have expected the bags to have much effect at 10psi with that much weight above them...go figure! Learn something new every day!
Good to know...on a post somewhere - I think the one about the early models self-destructing as you drive down the road - I thought I read the gap was a quarter...again, learn stuff every day on this forum! Good stuff!!
Totally...each driver needs to figure out what their individual setup is...how much day to day weight do you carry...do you run with the third row full of minions every day...do you tow once a month or three times a week...etc. etc. etc.
Have you found running both sway bars that you get tossed around more since both axles have resistance against 'roll'? When I replaced my shot bushings I expected a lot less roll than I'm seeing...but I don't want to make it so stiff that hitting a driveway at a 45 degree angle has the body feeling like it's welded to the frame and tossing us poor occupants around like marbles in a can...
Good to know...on a post somewhere - I think the one about the early models self-destructing as you drive down the road - I thought I read the gap was a quarter...again, learn stuff every day on this forum! Good stuff!!
Totally...each driver needs to figure out what their individual setup is...how much day to day weight do you carry...do you run with the third row full of minions every day...do you tow once a month or three times a week...etc. etc. etc.
Have you found running both sway bars that you get tossed around more since both axles have resistance against 'roll'? When I replaced my shot bushings I expected a lot less roll than I'm seeing...but I don't want to make it so stiff that hitting a driveway at a 45 degree angle has the body feeling like it's welded to the frame and tossing us poor occupants around like marbles in a can...
I tow once or twice per year no more than 5K lbs. usually tow 2,500 miles on round trip.
My Ex is empty 99% of the time. I dont even let a piece of garbage accumulate.
Yes, on the swaybars...I think its actually better on my body mounts!
#49
HUH! My experience with air bags was the reverse...
On my Expedition, I ran air bags inside of the coil springs in the rear. When not needed, I kept them at 10psi (minimum required) and could tell no difference at all in the rear suspension when driving unloaded.
When towing I'd pump them up to 50psi and it helped counteract the sag in the rear end.
RAS is always on with no real adjustment ability (well, no convenient adjustment)...I'm thinking if you added RAS to regular stock springs you supposedly get 3/4" to 1" of lift - meaning the RAS is working, even when empty, stiffening the rear end.
Add RAS to the already stiffer B code springs...even stiffer...all the time.
Add RAS to modded B's...stiffer still, with no way to 'relax' the RAS, since minimum spacing (roughly a quarter's width between coils on the spring) still raise even Modded B's - again, working all the time.
Has anyone driven with both (not at the same time) who can comment?
On my Expedition, I ran air bags inside of the coil springs in the rear. When not needed, I kept them at 10psi (minimum required) and could tell no difference at all in the rear suspension when driving unloaded.
When towing I'd pump them up to 50psi and it helped counteract the sag in the rear end.
RAS is always on with no real adjustment ability (well, no convenient adjustment)...I'm thinking if you added RAS to regular stock springs you supposedly get 3/4" to 1" of lift - meaning the RAS is working, even when empty, stiffening the rear end.
Add RAS to the already stiffer B code springs...even stiffer...all the time.
Add RAS to modded B's...stiffer still, with no way to 'relax' the RAS, since minimum spacing (roughly a quarter's width between coils on the spring) still raise even Modded B's - again, working all the time.
Has anyone driven with both (not at the same time) who can comment?
As far as the Excursion the tongue weight on the hitch is limited and I use weight distributing bars on my TT anyway, so RAS made more sense for my EX. I think while airbags are not a bad choice by any means, they are overkill for the Excursions limited hitch weight. Also I might add that the ride with the RAS seems to me to be softer anyway from the added 2" of travel you gain. I love my RAS.
The ride in my f250 doesn't really seem to be effected by the airbags maybe cause I always tow a work trailer haha.
#50
Yes, maybe not as bad as your discription But a noticable change from before the addition of it. I kinda like it, feel like it will add years to my body mounts due to the reduced amount of rocking when I hit driveways. It's more of a solid feel.
#51
When the EX is a rocking...
#54
The biggest underlying problem is ride quality can be very subjective. The minimum pressure is actually only 5 psi for the bags which can slightly help in reducing any stiffness you may have with airbags. 5 psi isn't much but it does add to the stiffness of any suspension, some suspensions you don't notice it and some people don't notice it.
There seems to be a lot of valid points for those who are choosing RAS over air bags and vice versa. It really boils down to the needs of the user and how much adjustability or increased load support each person needs.
There seems to be a lot of valid points for those who are choosing RAS over air bags and vice versa. It really boils down to the needs of the user and how much adjustability or increased load support each person needs.
#57
IMO...do the swap and if you need more, it's easy to add RAS or whatever later. If the fronts need replaced, do it sooner rather than later...you will be SO happy with the ride.
I only put on 12k on my rig with the bad springs, now I'm kicking myself for not making this the very first mod instead of putting up with the wander and crappy ride. And if you don't like the Bs or Modded Bs, you will always have willing buyers via the forum...just look how many reads the threads on spring swaps and steering wander have!
#58
Apologies to the OP for our taking over the thread, but great info/discussion...
As usual if there is no obvious consensus on doing one thing or the other,
that indicates that either solution works for most ! and a decision is almost personal preference, just like our tunes and our oil and our xxx discussions
My particular focus on participating in this thread is the handling of the trailer tow in that as a daily driver or towing light, the Ex does well for us...
Have the hellwig rear sway,rancho 9000 adjustable shocks, e rated new tires, and tow tune for my sct - so ....
in that light,
is it a decision of going for one or the other of ras OR bags
are theyu mutually exclusive or do we do both ?
If we go with one of those, we still NEED what ?
the V and B spring mod for the front AND rear ?
Having NEVER found a source for the V and B codes here in the dfw area...
90% of the time when I ask they look at you like me like I have a little green head !
What is the exact name for the springs - "F-250 front springs" or "f-350 rear springs" or ???
Thanks in advance - do plan on a couple of shakedown short trips just for practice !
AH ! Search is a good thing Thanks Stewart !
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA
Really don't want to add 3 inches to Ex as wheel wells look empty already... but if this is what it takes ......
is there any part of it that will get me there or ? Thanks !
As usual if there is no obvious consensus on doing one thing or the other,
that indicates that either solution works for most ! and a decision is almost personal preference, just like our tunes and our oil and our xxx discussions
My particular focus on participating in this thread is the handling of the trailer tow in that as a daily driver or towing light, the Ex does well for us...
Have the hellwig rear sway,rancho 9000 adjustable shocks, e rated new tires, and tow tune for my sct - so ....
in that light,
is it a decision of going for one or the other of ras OR bags
are theyu mutually exclusive or do we do both ?
If we go with one of those, we still NEED what ?
the V and B spring mod for the front AND rear ?
Having NEVER found a source for the V and B codes here in the dfw area...
90% of the time when I ask they look at you like me like I have a little green head !
What is the exact name for the springs - "F-250 front springs" or "f-350 rear springs" or ???
Thanks in advance - do plan on a couple of shakedown short trips just for practice !
AH ! Search is a good thing Thanks Stewart !
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA
Really don't want to add 3 inches to Ex as wheel wells look empty already... but if this is what it takes ......
is there any part of it that will get me there or ? Thanks !
#59
is it a decision of going for one or the other of ras OR bags
are theyu mutually exclusive or do we do both ?
If we go with one of those, we still NEED what ?
the V and B spring mod for the front AND rear ?
Having NEVER found a source for the V and B codes here in the dfw area...
90% of the time when I ask they look at you like me like I have a little green head !
What is the exact name for the springs - "F-250 front springs" or "f-350 rear springs" or ???
Thanks in advance - do plan on a couple of shakedown short trips just for practice !
AH ! Search is a good thing Thanks Stewart !
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA
Really don't want to add 3 inches to Ex as wheel wells look empty already... but if this is what it takes ......
is there any part of it that will get me there or ? Thanks !
are theyu mutually exclusive or do we do both ?
If we go with one of those, we still NEED what ?
the V and B spring mod for the front AND rear ?
Having NEVER found a source for the V and B codes here in the dfw area...
90% of the time when I ask they look at you like me like I have a little green head !
What is the exact name for the springs - "F-250 front springs" or "f-350 rear springs" or ???
Thanks in advance - do plan on a couple of shakedown short trips just for practice !
AH ! Search is a good thing Thanks Stewart !
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Front V code springs: Part #2C3Z-5310-HA
Rear B code springs: Part #3C3Z-5560-CB
Left side 3.5" tapered block: Part #F81Z-5598-FA
Right side 3.5" tapered block Part #F81Z-5598-GA
Really don't want to add 3 inches to Ex as wheel wells look empty already... but if this is what it takes ......
is there any part of it that will get me there or ? Thanks !
Here are the combos I have seen most on here:
Vs on the front, 3.5" tapered blocks on the rear (with stock,rear springs)
Vs on the front, RAS on the rear
Vs on the front, Bs on the rear
Vs on the front, Modified Bs on the rear
RAS and air bags are not exclusive, you could do both I think.
When asking, tell them you want F250 springs, V code fronts and B code on the rear (as listed on the donor truck B pillar sticker). If they still give you the stupid look, better move on 'cause they are truly idjits at that point.