You have to be careful. I've seen some accidents when raising the front of a vehicle that was in park (or the emerg. brake set), the jack could not roll as the vehicle was lifted. So the vehicle has to roll. Tilt.
Tis a nice unit. Bill I've told you before that your garage is too small. I know I've had to add on to mine for my "necessary" tool purchases.

 

George, I have used these before and am well aware that RWD in park or any with the brake set are an accident waiting to happen. I borrowed a pair to do a Mercedes-Benz transmission one time, worked great.

 

Figured you might be Bill. Just don't want any FTE'er getting hurt. Looks like we might be in for a warm Summer.

 

So far it seems like it, the blood sucking helicopters have all ready been active. Not doing much on my truck lately, trying to get some stuff done on my "toy", a 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible. It replaces the 85 one I had that was totaled by a Mercedes-Benz ML320.

 

Just purchased a flux core welder to try to teach myself how to do some light welding.

 

Flux core is fine for heavy metal but not to good for sheet metal. It will work but if you can go solid wire and gas do so for sheet metal.
Dave - - - -

 

Or at least get a welder that can have the gas attachment easily added later.

 

Speaking of welders, I have a 110v Century MIG that I've had for years. It has served me very well and I've welded a lot of things. However recently when welding up the brackets for the nerf bars, which used 1/4" strap and 3" square tubing, I found it a bit lacking on heat for that metal. It got the job done, but it took some finesse.

Last night I was talking with a friend that runs a welding supply shop in Tulsa and asked if I needed to get a larger welder. He asked what gas I'm using, which is 70/30, and then said we will change to 90/10 and the welder will be fine. He explained that 70/30 is best for sheet metal as it keeps the heat down, and 90/10 is best for thicker metal as it allows the heat to build.

 

Fortunately (and completely by accident) this model is amenable to gas addition, or so the manual says.

 

I highly prefer using gas. It leaves a cleaner weld that requires almost no prep before running another bead.

 

Forty+ years of turning wrenches, and I finally got around to buying a decent set of tire chocks:




No more blocks of wood, hunks of firewoods, rocks, etc. for me! The camera angle makes these look a little small compared to the gravedigger tires on my truck, but these chocks are 4" tall, actually slightly bigger than the homemade chocks I had been using, fabricated from a piece of wooden 4x4 fence post. Unlike other chocks, these things do NOT slip. And most convenient of all, when not in use, I hang 'em by the rope on a nail in the garage wall:

 

Got quite a few tools for my truck for my engine. Got a head off piston stop tool, got a crank turning socket for holding my degree wheel I still need to get. Got a oil pump primer shaft which I never had before. Also got a carb mounting lift plate for picking the engine up. Im also looking at getting the lifter dial indicator to help me life easier on me finding the degrees as well as lighter checking springs to check for valve to piston clearance as well as finding proper pushrod length.

 

I went and exchanged a broken 3/8 craftsman ratchet at Lowe's. My ancient ratchet broke because i used a cheater pipe instead of a breaker bar (my fault). The new ratchet that is supposedly a direct replacement is horrible. It takes a full 1/8 turn to get to the next tooth and it's sloppier than the Walmart ratchet I bought and abused since I was 12. Has anyone else had issues with the new craftsman stuff being sub par? I threw mine 50yds into the woods because I wouldn't let my 4 year use it. it's so bad. On a brighter note, a nice PSA is Stanley just broke ground in Texas for a new craftsman factory.

 

Oh, no question, the newer Craftsman stuff (like most everything) isn't what it used to be. I have a fine-tooth 3/8" ratchet that's gotta be 30+ years old, and yeah, I knock wood that it never fails, for just this reason. TBH, for anything new I just buy Pittsburgh at Horrible Fright. It's about the same quality as the new cr@ptastic Craftsman, and it's they same warranty (and they DO honor the warranty).

Who knows, maybe someday 50 years in the future, Craftsman will return to its former quality. And someone will find that ratchet you tossed into the woods and exchange it.......

 

I have some craftsman ratchets that aren't that old and pretty much made them into the tools I carry in the vehicles. I hate using them. Most of my ratchets I use in my box are either the pittsburgh professional or Gearwrench 120XP. I really like those 120XP ratchets. Super smooth, comfortable to use, very fine swing arc which has gotten me out of a jam more times than I care to think of, and it's pretty strong since they're 60 tooth with alternating pawls for 120 positions. I like them better than any snap on ratchet I've ever used. Price is right with lifetime warranty as well!

I've had to warranty some 1/4" drive craftsman ratchets in the past that had a nice polished body and received a very rough casting that was sharp and hard on the hands, and looked like they were "polished" with a coarse grinding wheel. That was when I quit buying craftsman hand tools.