For the bushings, I used side cutters to cut the rear sway bar arm link bushings off of my truck, worked OK and didn't take very long.

 

Matthew - Thanks. I may be able to use that info later, but now I'm wondering if they screw off or what.

 

Mine didn't, the new ones I had laying around that just happened to fit just pushed on no problem with a spraying of silicone spray. I want to do all polyurethane bushings eventually though.

 

I use my magnetic trays a lot, but my radiator itself got a lot of use, the two row unit makes a nice little tray...

 

More things found their way off the truck today, including the front dress on the engine, the engine itself, the gas tank & its skid plate, rear bumper, spare tire & the skid plate above it, the frame wiring harness, and the rear shocks. In fact, it is now easier to list what's still on: The front four shocks, the master cylinder and booster, the brake tubing, the power steering pump, and the wiring harness at the rear of the frame. And, those things are coming off tomorrow. In addition I'll loosen the bed bolts so Marshall can easily get them off.

Speaking of Marshall, he's moved the goal post on me. We'd agreed on him picking everything up on Saturday, but he's now wanting to get it on Friday. So, the next two days are really gonna be busy as I've got to roll what's left of Dad's truck out and Brownie in so I can get things out of the cab to ensure he can get out the pieces he'll need.

And, here are some pictures. First, the engine hanging on the shop crane, although now it is on the engine stand. Second, the spacer after ~5000 miles. The third and fourth ones are of a very bare truck. And five is of what I suspect is some kind of a flapper valve that is toast, while six shows the same spot on the other side w/o the valve. (Yes, Chris, I can look it up and probably will, but haven't done so yet.) Guess I'll have to figure out what they are and where I can get them.

 

The underside looks about as clean as mine does.

 

This is the truck that sockets get lost in the muck on the crossmember? How can that be? Or, are you saying you don't have a transmission, drive shaft, gas tank, etc?

 

Totally guessing here, but I think the "flaps" are a part of the inlet for the vents for the non a/c trucks?

 

Maybe. I was guessing that they were to let water out of the cowl area but not let debris et al in. However, given the slots in the cowl it was easy for debris to come in that way, and it looks like it is clogging up the one valve.

Speaking of that, I haven't explained our plan for the cowl. While I had originally thought I'd go to the salvage and get a later model cowl with the pin holes instead of the slots, Marshall suggested he use some screen he has and glue it on the backside. It'll keep the original look but be more function.

Also, I've been looking at the roof of the cab trying to figure out how to sound-deaden it. If you've not looked at it, the roof is a dual-walled arrangement with absolutely nothing between. The inner wall is stamped with a raised portion above the driver and above the passenger while the outside edges and the center section is lower. This gives the inner wall some stiffness, but the outer wall, the actual roof, has no stiffness and surely must drum and ring when going down the highway. I can easily push it down with my fingers.

So, I've been thinking about how to stiffen things to cut down on the drumming and ringing. As it turned out, today Marshall said he's going to fill some nooks in the cab with urethane foam that doesn't expand much but really bonds things together. So I explained my thoughts about the roof and we've agreed that he's going to try this on the extra cab by drilling some holes in the inner wall in order to inject some of the foam and see how it works. And, if it works as we think it will he'll do that to the real cab.

 

I was going to suggest some type of expanding foam. The stuff at the hardware store might expand too much and cause some weird looking ins and outs. I was wondering if you had an actual headliner or if you just have the metal painted ceiling in Dads truck? If you have the headliner maybe you could put some dynamat on the ceiling before you put the headliner back in?

 

I do have a headliner and will certainly put something on there before the headliner goes on. That'll probably be Peal & Seal since it works and is inexpensive. And, given how hard it was to get off of the floor there's no worry about it falling off. But, if we can bond the two panels together that should help even more.

 

Mine has insulation glued in between the cross ribs (4 I think). It is about 1/2" thick similar to what the firewall pad is made of, but without the rubber, or the carpet underlay.

The screen is a good plan, the slots were not one of Ford's "better ideas". If you can't get new "valves" I have a couple of good ones.

 

Now would be the time to dynomat(or the like) the crap out of the cab, Pretty much every large flat surface. You would be amazed at the sound difference. Especially just doing the roof, but the floor makes a huge difference, in temperature as well as sound. I would also put a sheet inside each of the doors.

 

Hmmmm, yours is different. This one is one piece of metal for the lower panel, and extends the whole width. The only holes in it are for the dome light, the sun visor centers, and little slots where the trim snaps in above the doors and windshield. Other than that it is solid, but the space between the two layers is hollow.

 

Matt, I think he already had dynomat on the floor. I didn't bother with my doors, mainly because the later panels are pretty well insulated.