Walked out to my truck today to see a wet spot under my truck. At first I thought it was my fuel leak from the drain valve again, I've rebuilt it twice this week and wasnt pleased to see the puddle. Then I got closer and it wasnt the drain valve (which looks like it has stopped leaking). I couldnt tell what it was, until I saw a drop about to fall from the steering stabilizer. It was green.

Looked up and couldnt tell exactly where it was coming from. It looks like its coming from the waterpump gasket where the lower radiator hose comes out. I'm at about 155k which I know is right around the time these pumps like to go bad. I'd really like to save this pump if possible, what are the chances I just need a new gasket? I have all of the stuff lined up for a full coolant system flush (thermostat, TS housing, dual alternator upper radiator belt..) and if I can save this pump that means I can do this flush sooner, but if I have to replace the pump it will delay the whole thing due to funds.. I also plan on putting a filter on there too, which is why I was hoping to save the pump, but it looks like it beat me to the table.

So. Is my pump salvageable? Is it just the gasket? Replace it anyway (my least favorite option).

If someone can point me to where to look, I can get better pics. I know theres something called a weep hole. Thats about as much as I know about that

I know much of you have dealt with this before.
Thanks brethren.

 

the weep hole is right behind the pulley on the bottom side of the pump. If it's just the lower rad hose takeoff just go get the o-ring & keep getting up

 

If that pump was never changed, no way would I change the gasket and put that pump back on. Heck, I'm thinking about changing my water pump before it starts leaking.

 

does riffraff still have the pumps on sale?

 

Yupp. About $150.

 

Make me wonder why PO replace water pump on mine it was brand new when I got.

I notice alot 7.3L on craigslist say Claim new water pump at 5K or 50K miles ago.


From what I know it no fun to change water pump. I pray mine last 300-400K miles.


I think easy way is borrow coolant tester pressure and pump to 10 or 13 psi if that rad cap say 16 psi I wouldn't do 16 just 13 or less psi. And leave there for 2 hours to see if any leak or pressure drop.


My exp with 1994 explorer almost all radiator hoses were loosen after pump to 13 psi it last 1 hour it drop to 6 psi.

 

This pic is of the very beginning of a water pump shaft seal leak draining out the weep hole. You can see the discoloration on
the front cover and follow it up and behind the water pump pulley. If you see anything like this it is time for a new water pump.



Just for a visual here is a pic of the water pump with the weep hole circled.

 

change yours and send it to him so he will be replacing the leakign one with a non leaker and a new gasket. have him cover shipping.

help a guy out.

 

OEM water pump at Riffraff

 

Beat me to it.

I was gonna say Trey, with your truck at 155k, and with you already planning on doing a flush, I wouldn't even THINK of spending all that money and doing all that work without changing the pump too.

Last year I had planned on doing preventive maintenance on my 250 and do a backflush, ELC refill, and water pump change-out and my pump was still good! Only problem is, the pump went bad before I got around to doing the work, so my hand was forced.

Stewart

 

i have 169k on mine i hope it dont blow.

 

i had a similar leak...fixed it last nite. it was at the flange for the lower hose. got an oring and am not leak free again. i cleaned the flange and pump REALLY good for the oring and used some super o-ring lube from parkers. looked under the pump and all over, but found no leaking...mine would only drip a little, but my driveway is gravel, so it could have been leaking a while. saw it on tuesday in the walmart parking lot. if you go to chain stores, it will be the other one listed with a thermostat oring, it is a lot larger. but just got one from ford today in case i need it...good luck

 

It's not bad, I can do mine in maybe and hour or hour and a half if it is just a straight change, coolant flush will take a little longer.

I have found it easiest to pull the radiator and intercooler so you have room to work but I understand it can be done with the radiator in and IC in. I have never wanted to risk dropping something and damaging them so I pull them.

 

Trey, if you have to pull it anyway to replace the seal, better off replacing it than having to do it all again, and that way you know you are good for another 150k. Coming up with the $$$ is gonna suck, but it's worth it.

 

ToMang07 beat me to it. You're doing all the same work, spend the $150 and not worry about it for a long time.