super duty conversion help
#16
#17
have you heard of any better AOD applications? im still fairly new to this so any input is good input! im the kinda guy who will tweak on things until he dies. i just cant leave things alone to save my life.
ill give High-Impact a call and see how much their trans would be if they built it to withstand 800lbs of torque and 400 horses
#18
The main reason I converted mine to a manual was I tow a 10k lb. tow hauler and wanted it bullet proof over the passes. And I knew I wouldn't be leaving the engine stock, just mildly modified. A 4r100 would need beefing up and a stand alone computer. I have heard the 5r is strong enough stock, but still needs stand alone. I had access to the manual and it was just less $$$.
#20
my first point of order is this 2001 super duty im lookin at today.
9 grand, 128k miles, manual 4x4, lariat package mmmmm leather
even comes with a matching camper. shortbox supercab. perfect length
but its the dreaded V10.....oh well i guess 13 mpg isnt much worse than 15.6 in the ranger driving my mountain road everyday. ill sacrifice 3 miles for more than twice the power.
then tax returns come and hello cummins.
#21
finding a good trans shop is a task within its self
my first point of order is this 2001 super duty im lookin at today.
9 grand, 128k miles, manual 4x4, lariat package mmmmm leather
even comes with a matching camper. shortbox supercab. perfect length
but its the dreaded V10.....oh well i guess 13 mpg isnt much worse than 15.6 in the ranger driving my mountain road everyday. ill sacrifice 3 miles for more than twice the power.
then tax returns come and hello cummins.
my first point of order is this 2001 super duty im lookin at today.
9 grand, 128k miles, manual 4x4, lariat package mmmmm leather
even comes with a matching camper. shortbox supercab. perfect length
but its the dreaded V10.....oh well i guess 13 mpg isnt much worse than 15.6 in the ranger driving my mountain road everyday. ill sacrifice 3 miles for more than twice the power.
then tax returns come and hello cummins.
birthday is monday
#25
#26
pulled the trigger on the super duty. a beautiful white f250 lariat(mmm luxury) with manual transfer case (mmmm reliability) and an amazing canopy setup with a padded and carpeted bed.
after taxes and finance charges ill end up walkin away with it for 10k.
129xxx miles on the triton v10.
33 inch bfg T/a K/o's, tow package
Rancho stabilizer...
signed all the papers on my birthday....
great gift to myself
after taxes and finance charges ill end up walkin away with it for 10k.
129xxx miles on the triton v10.
33 inch bfg T/a K/o's, tow package
Rancho stabilizer...
signed all the papers on my birthday....
great gift to myself
#27
The early super duties used a four pulse tach. Different years use different number of pulses. The 12V Cummins I used already has two nothces cut in the balancer and a sensor. If I would have cut two more notches to give it a four pulse per revolution signal I could have used the stock sensor. It is a two wire sensor. One wire is grounded and the other goes to tach. In my case it was the same as the cam sensor wire.
#28
So im thinking about picking up a 12v 6bt with my tax return money....
what year engine would be the best as far as reliability and versitility...
and would the stock 4r100 trans in my 6.8 work well with the 6bt for now?
i think an adapter plate would be a lot cheaper than a new trans as well.
I read my trans is good to 1000 lbs of torque but i also read that the power doubles after the converter so you are almost maxed out to the rating....
i would be going for gas milage with the 6bt so i dont think id have the pump turned up a lot.....would this be adequate for my application?
i have 4:30:1 gearing someone HELP!!!!! haha
what year engine would be the best as far as reliability and versitility...
and would the stock 4r100 trans in my 6.8 work well with the 6bt for now?
i think an adapter plate would be a lot cheaper than a new trans as well.
I read my trans is good to 1000 lbs of torque but i also read that the power doubles after the converter so you are almost maxed out to the rating....
i would be going for gas milage with the 6bt so i dont think id have the pump turned up a lot.....would this be adequate for my application?
i have 4:30:1 gearing someone HELP!!!!! haha
#29
First make sure the state/county you live in doesnt have any rules against it. Some places dont allow it, others require same year or newer engine as truck, some dont have any reg's. I would recommend a 215hp version of the 12V(around 96-97 year?). Good stock power to keep the trans together. When you get trans upgraded you can easily(and cheaply) make good upgrades with fuel plate etc. The 215hp versions pump is better for making big hp #'s. That being said, mine is a 160hp, but I changed fuel plate, gov springs, injectors, and added a bigger turbo. The power is great, but when the time comes for pump work, I will upgrade to the 215hp pump.
#30
So ive been down and out for a while. I was spending too much time researching lift kits all to find out i dont even want one. So back to my original plan. 12v 6bt....but new plan for the trans. How about a c6? I found a nice rebuilt one with all upgraded parts for 1200 shipped to my door. Comes with an hd torque converter too. Good up to 650 horses, not sure of the torque rating on the rebuild though. Ive been slowly figuring out i can pick up a nice rebuilt transmission and a used low milage cummins for hopefully around 3500. I just lack most of the technical experience when it comes to an install. I mean im not stupid i did service the trans myself using the return cooler line to pump the 19 quarts of atf out. Its just hard when you grew up with the single mom to pick up those types of mechanical things so im just now really exercising my mechanical abilities. I read lop223's excursion project thread and found some useful info in there. As for the super duty its holdin out pretty good. I put a flowmaster single chamber on so needless to say it screams. havin some idle problems, i fixed a broken sonic weld on my maf housing that the sensor sits on and thinking about doing o2 sensors. But the rattling and grinding i am getting at certian rpms kinda sucks. I dont know if it is just bad gas or i have a blown plug or something in the belt driven components. Almost sounds like my ranger when its struggling to get up a hill. Like someone just threw a handful of change in the cylinder. Any thoughts gentlemen?