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From what I've read there is no need to change the starter. The 6v one should work fine the way it is. It's wound with heavier gauge wire due to the amp load under 6v. When you convert to 12v, you double the voltage but cut the amperage in half. Everything else on the list looks right though.
The starter will live, just do not crank it for long periods. Generators can be reconfigured 12V or find one from a 1956 through early to mid 1960s. Change polarity of the new coil in the system. Bulbs or reducers. And new battery. If you go the generator route you will need a 12v regulator, of course.
Comments: Few people will notice the 12 volt conversion with the generator but many will spot the alternator.
Alternator has its advantages.
i did this with my 42. used generator. except for battery, you can't tell. starter is ok at 6-volt. remember--it will now be negative ground. change wiring at coil. you can probably get away with condensor, but i would change it. all bulbs. flasher. fuses. most any good fuse panel should work. make sure engine is grounded to cab and frame. get in trouble, yell! pete
Here are a few things to think about. Some may affect you and some may not...
I don't know if you have a heater or not but that needs a 12V motor although if controlled with a rheostat you can run it on low speed without any problem.
You will need to add a ballast resistor since 6V systems didn't come with one. This will extend point life.
If you are using a relay for your horn(s) it should be changed to 12V even if you retain your 6V horn(s). A relay makes the horn work much better than without one. Some older cars and trucks did not come with one. Your truck may not have.
If you have add-on directional signals you need a 12V flasher.
You will need some kind of voltage drop for your gas gauge.
If you use your original ammeter and change to negative ground you will need to reverse the wiring or the ammeter will show a discharge instead of a charge.
Why change to 12V? I have driven my old Fords daily, and as hobby cars. I have never had problems with the stock 6V positive ground setup once I get everything in good shape. My observation is that a well set up stock 6V car gives less problems that one converted to 12V.
I can see 12v parts easier to come by (maybe) as a reason to change. I left mine 6v but changed out to an alternator. I wanted nothing to do with boiling batteries, dim head lights, etc. It seemed to me to be a good idea at the time. IIRC (and I probably don't) there was more corrosion on the positive grounded vehicles I have worked on. Of course, it could just be my take on the whole thing too...
The only change for me was the battery cables (negative ground) and the ammeter wire reversal.
I found a 12 volt alternator that look like the original 6v generator. I want to make everything look as original as possible. Along that thread I saw an after market air cleaner that had the look of the oil bath air cleaner but with a paper element inside. I wish I had picked it up when I saw it because I can't find it now!
Bummer, lesson learned though.
I found a 12 volt alternator that look like the original 6v generator. I want to make everything look as original as possible. Along that thread I saw an after market air cleaner that had the look of the oil bath air cleaner but with a paper element inside. I wish I had picked it up when I saw it because I can't find it now!
Bummer, lesson learned though.
1947 Ford 1/2 ton Pickup
Holy Cow! That is a beautiful truck you have there. I'm a fan of the 12 volt negative ground system with the gm alternator. For the most part I'm a purist, but I tend to run my stuff for business and around here it is damp and misty a lot and my trucks live in open sheds. Also I can neglect battery terminal cleaning etc at times. The 12 volt seems like it's more forgiving when I'm busy with other things.
09-07-2011 | 02:12 AM
