I have an oil leak at either the fitting to the pump or the line to the fitting interface (maybe a little of each). I got the o-rings from Guzzle. I was planning to replace these o-rings leaving the pump in place. Question: how much oil comes out when the lines are disconnected? My assumption is the pump keeps the reservoir from draining. Just trying to control the flood in advance and not waste time sucking oil out the top plug if not needed. Thanks in advance. ('02 7.3 stock motor in excursion)

 

won't have much of a "flood" when you pull the lines. you will need some brakeclean or some such to clean things up real good before you put the fittings back in. you want the thread bosses clean and dry and then put some red loctite on the threads before reassembly.
you don't want a fitting to back out while driving. (trust me, quickest 8 qt oil change you'll ever do!)

Barney

 

what is best for these lines to replace the quick connect line seals( original lines), or replace the lines(after market) with updated tapered fittings?

 

There are a lot of options available to you like the ones at CNC Fabrication Diesel, or the OEM version at RiffRaff diesel.

I decided on the following parts when I recently changed out my HPOP lines.

Tool (not required but has a bottle opener as well) - HPOP Quick Disconnect Hose Removal Tool for Ford 7.3L 99-03

Drivers side - HPOP Line - Driver Side Head

Passenger side - HPOP Line - Passenger Side Head 99.5-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

2x Non-check valve HPOP fitting (OEM check valve are available too) - HPOP Outlet Hose Fitting - Non Check Valve - Riffraff Diesel Performance

680 Loctite - Loctite 680 Coarse Thread Locker .5ML - Riffraff Diesel Performance

2x Head fitting - HPOP Line Fitting - Cylinder Head - Riffraff Diesel Performance

This list gave me a very clean and secure HPOP line system that should be good for years to come.

 

Doing same thing, as we text. Had a bad oring at pump, so diesel orings in hand, going to fetch loctite680. Now, when you pull the fittings at head or pump, they'll continue to seep until all oil I removed from either the head or pump. So, this is how i got to it. Now, ready for clean threads and install of fresh fittings....btw, the internal fitting orings, BE CAREFUL, theres a white plastic collar that seats atop the oring. Make sure you don't distort it when removing/installing new oring Oh so sucky

 

So, can the OEM check valves be removed and fittings be installed or do i/we need the non cv fittings? Only items in the hpop side fittings were a spring and a plate attached to spring... Check valves
Rebuilt fittings
Snap ring, and can see oring/white collar

 

Don't quote me on this, but I believe you can remove the spring and disc (check valve) and they are essentially what I listed above. The ones listed above I believe are a bit wider as well for oil to go through, but I don't think that makes much difference.

By removing the check valves, you are essentially providing an HPx connection between the heads like the HPx line does.

I only bought new fittings because the ones on my truck looked like crap and I just didn't want to fight with them. It was worth the extra few bucks to get nice and clean fittings to me.

 

If anyone replaces their HPOP fittings, PLEASE KEEP the old ones for me!

I'm hoping to make Cody test devices from them

 

If you want to eliminate the STC fittings ( Snap to Connect), then you can go with this kit from CNC-Fab. It includes the 2 lines and all the fittings, to convert to the '94.5-'97 style "conventional" thread on fittings.
Its very inexpensive, at only $135 total. However, the one thing I don't like is the lack of the smooth cover/coating over the lines, that the factory fittings have. These are important, not so much to protect the hoses, but to protect all the wires and other hoses in the valley from being scraped/scrubbed along the braided stainless lines.
https://www.cncfab.us/shop/cnc-fabri...nt-hpop-lines/

On the other hand, if you want to "refurbish" the stock setup, you need Left and Right OEM replacement lines ( Which are actually made by Aeroquip), which are about $100/ea. You would also need (2) fittings for the head ( $14.76 ea if you get the high flows), and (2) fittings for the heads @ $15.34 each. Total of $260.20 + shipping.
High Pressure Oil Pump Repair Parts

You could save about $20, and just buy the repair kit/new orings for the fittings, but for $20, why screw around with those tiny little o-rings? Just buy new fittings, complete ready to screw on.


So, $135 + Shipping for CNC Fab, '94.5 -'97 threaded style fittings and new hoses. But no protective cover on the hoses.

Or $260.20 to replace all 4 STC fittings with new and replace the hoses with new OEM replacements ( which will have a nice improved silicone cover/sleeve)

 

I just changed hpop lines and wish i had sucked the oil out of the pump. still have oil in the valley that i could not reach. i took my time changing the lines though, so the oil slowly seeped out and ended up being a mess

 

Hey john, do you want the fittings on the pump or heads or both? i was going to try to make your little invention with one but your welcome to the rest

 

I appreciate it

Only the ones in the head are of use to me. Because of the check valves they have thicker walls, which are better for the internal threads.

I *could* get threads into the ones in the head, but decided I would rather be safe than sorry. No broken pieces or slivers of threads being pushed into the oil rail. Extra dose of caution

If you send both of the fittings from the HPOP to me, I'll get them drilled and tapped, and send one back? Unless you have facilities to handle it yourself?

As soon as I get to the store I am going to make Version 2, which will be better. Should be within the week

Thanks!

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