OK EVERYBODY HERES A GOOD PROBLEM PUT ON YOUR THINKING CAPS. JUST CHANGED UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS, BOTH SIDES NEW HUB ASSY. AND SEALS NEW BRAKES AND ROTORS. TRUCK NOW WANDERS ALL OVER THE ROAD HARD TO CONTROL. HAD IT INTO ALIGNMENT SHOP NOW IT'S A LITTLE BETTER BUT NOT THE SAME WAY IN HANDLING IN FACT IT IS SCARY TO DRIVE. TIE RODS ARE GOOD AND GREASED. ALSO THE STEERING DOES NOT RETURN LIKE IT SHOULD. ANY HELP OR SUGESTIONS? THE ALIGNMENT SHOP IS STUMPED ALSO. HELP HELP

 

1st thing, Welcome to the site Johny,
The only other thing I can think of is swaybar bushings and endlink bushings.
Mines wore out and I wander around the road too.
If you have new tires on with big lugs they'll let you wander around too till the tread wears in.
Hope that helps.

 

Check for play at the pitman arm. Might be your steering box it worn out. You can adjust some of the slop out of the box but many (myself included) consider this a temporary fix. Eventually the steering box will need replaced. If it seems tight check the little rubber donut at the end of the steering shaft where it connects to the input shaft of the steering box. The donut can get ripped.

 

So did it wander before you did the ball joints and hubs? Did you have the alignment shop drive it?

Oh, your caps lock is on.

 

HI THANKS FOR THE WELCOME. THE LOWER BALLJOINTWAS SHOT BOTH SIDES FRONT WHEELS LEANING INBOARD BAD BUT STILL STEERED GOOD WITH NO WANDERING . WILL CHECK STEERING BOX.

 

Not sure if this thread will help you but check it out...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-truck.html

BTW: Your caps lock is still on

 

HOW MUCH PLAY IN STEERING BOX IS NORMAL AND HOW DO YOU ADJUST THE PLAY ?

 

Sounds like it could be your drag link, as in the post referenced above.

 

You're steering box should have no play at all. To adjust it you will need the proper size hex wrench and proper size wrench. The hex bolt and nut are located on the top of the steering box.

1.) Hold the hex bolt with the hex wrench and loosen the nut with your wrench. Do not allow the hex bolt to turn at this point.
2.) Once the nut is loose hold the nut with the wrench while you tighten the hex bolt. DO NOT go more then 1/4 turn at a time or until you feel resistance in the hex bolt. If you over tighten your steering box you can ruin it.
3.) Once the hex bolts has been turn hold it with the hex wrench and then tighten the nut back down. Do not allow the hex bolt.
4.) Go for a test drive or have someone observer the pitman arm while you turn the steering wheel. If there is still play repeat steps 1 - 3. If at anytime you feel resistance in the hex bolt STOP and back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Note that it is my belief that this is a temporary measure and that the only true fix is to rebuilt the steering box or buy a high quality rebuild.

 

Thanks I'll try that what confuses me is why no problem with bad ball joints . Could this have hurt the steering box? Thanks by the was the alignment shop said all tie rods and draglink good and tight. Alignmentwas only out a few degrees. That's what I don't understand Any ideas?

 

A couple thoughts.
1.) The issues with the ball joints were masking the problem with the steering box.
2.) The alignment shop screwed up. A few years ago I had an "alignment" done that made my truck much worse. After looking into and playing around some I found out the left front wheel was 4 degrees off. I basically aligned my truck in my driveway with straight edges and boards. The truck handled much better. I then took it to a respected alignment and suspension shop that is about 40 minuets away that is known for only working on trucks. According to the technician I got it to within 1/32 from alignment L to R. It was at the point I almost wanted cry from all the money I had spent between the two alignments.

 

I to have a 2000 SD. F350 4X4 CC dually.
With over 350,000 miles. Having gone through many a set of ball joints I finely put in some DynaTrac pro joints.
The difference took some getting used too. It was so much easier to steer.
The parking lot maneuverability was great.

Reason I'm saying these things is that maybe it is drive closer to the way it should.
The old joints may have been so stiff, as mine where. Now that you have new joints that are moving as they should, if feels like it wanders.

Just a thought to ponder.

 

I have seen where new joints take some time to break in.. If they are very tight the truck will be hell to drive..Jack the front up with engine off the and the key to on you should be able to grab the wheel/tire and go lock to lock by hand. If not check for something binding..


Dick

 

I had the same issue exactly. If my guess is right, you are constantly correcting it as it will not center itself, just sticks where it is headed even with a slight turn from center.
This happened to me after I had new ball joints installed. I took it back and the mechanic tinkered with the steering box. WRONG!!! Do not go there just yet!
It will just make it worse for now.
I finally took it to my local Ford service and they said that the nuts were torqued too tight and they re-torqued them. I don't know which nuts they were referring to but when I picked it up and drove it home it had the same symptoms just not as bad.
For several months I drove it this way and finally took it to someone highly recommended. He couldn't find anything wrong with any part of my front end but agreed that there was "something" not right when he drove it. He proceeded to re-grease everything (your new joints should have fittings now) with a red grease until all old grease was forced out.
What ever he did with that grease fixed it. Unfortunately I now have a little bit of play in my steering from the first mechanic tinkering with the box.
I really don't know what cause the problem originally except maybe the brand or type or aftermarket ball joints. Pretty sure he got them from NAPA.

 

Thanks everyone for all the help. Lots of things to check. I hope it's something simple. I'lllet you all know. Any other ideas will also help