I had my neighbor come up and take a look at the problem.
He brought a tester.
He tested the spark plug, ignition, etc.
Thought it was the coil and went out to a junk yard to locate the correct replacement.
Replaced the coil and still no luck.
He then called his friend who is a mechanic at an auto shop.
He brought a test unit he uses to check fault codes.
He connected it and no codes retuned when trying to start the engine.
He turned the key and noticed no lights on the dash for the pre-check (check engine, etc.)

He thinks it is the ECM.

He priced an ECM replacement for my engine that does not require it to be flashed..cost $365

I found this site showing an ECM for a 1995 Ford XLT 3.0 liter v6..at $153
Would this work or do I need to provide the VIN, have it flashed, etc

Any ideas/comments ?

95 1995 Ford Ranger Engine Control Unit - Emission Control - A1 Cardone | Drivewire.com

 

If you don't have any dash warning lights lit at KOEO, check the under hood ECM power relay, as it is supposed to close it's contacts to send power to the ECM, at KOEO.

 

ok,

I am out of town for a few days.
<O</O
The neighbor and mechanic said they cheeked all fuses, but not sure on the relays,
<O</O
Is the ECM relay near fuel pump relay?<O</O

How do you check the relay?<O</O

If it is the ECM, was the site I listed the right price - $152?

 

To check the ECM power relay, swap out the ECM relay with a like one not needed to run the engine, like the AC relay.

 

Ok,,

I swapped the #2 relay, which I think was the ECM, with the # 1 relay WOT.
No go, still will not start,,just cranks

When I turn the key, I see the battery indicator, the ABS, Seat Belt, and Check Gage lights come on as I turn the key, then they go off

I do not see check engine,
Where is the check engine light loacated?

Could it be the ECM?

 

At KOEO, before you crank the engine, do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds & cut off????

Do you have spark when cranking the engine????

 

I will double check for the fule pump sound,<O</O
I am pretty sure I heard it the first time we tried this a few weeks ago,,<O</O
<O</O

According to my neighbor and his mechanic friend, there is spark. <O</O
They connected a tester to the plug wire and cranked the engine and got a reading,,<O</O

 

I can hear the fuel pump for about 3 seconds or so prior to turning the key all the way to start,,

 

A simple suggestion to see if fuel is too old is to spray starting ether into the intake behind the throttle plate, or use WD-40. Spray about 3 seconds worth, and be prepared for blowback. Let the throttle close, and try to start the engine. If it starts you have a fuel delivery problem. The pump, regulator, filter or injectors...
If it doesn't start, and you have reported already you have spark as seen by your neighbors, then I'd really think about getting the remote start system out of the picture to simplify trouble shooting.
So far, your reports say the pump is running, but you don't get a good stream shooting from the fuel rail, you do have spark. AND, it won't run, and doesn't seem to be firing at all.
If that is not a good summary, tell us. The summary makes me look at fuel supply, but it could be ignition sensors, affecting timing.
Try the WD-40 ...
tom

 

OK, so you can hear the fuel pump run & cut off at KOEO as it should.
You reported in an earlier post that fuel just dribbled out of the fuel rail schrader valve, so fuel pressure is still in question. As was suggested earlier, do a proper KOEO & KOER fuel pressure check at the fuel rail schrader valve, with a fuel pressure gauge & post the numbers.

 

I went out and cranked the engine and immediately went out and depressed the schrader valve,,
gas shoots out..

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but I can check with the neighbor.

I can try WD-40 or see if the neighbor has ether.

Excuse my ignorance, but where is the
intake and the throttle plate on the Ranger 3.0 Liter v6?

thanks

 

The fact that the fuel shot out is a good sign as far as the fuel delivery system. The throttle plate is connected to the cable that comes from the gas pedal. If you can find the air cleaner box, and follow the large plastic tube to where it is clamped onto the top of the engine, you will be at the throttle plate area. If you loosen the clamp, and wiggle the tube off the engine, you will see the throttle plate. You can verify it by moving the lever the cable is attached to. If you move the lever, the throttle plate, also called the butterfly valve, will pivot on its shaft, allowing air to enter the intake manifold. The intake manifold is directly behind the throttle plate, and directs air downward and into the intake valves. It will have 6 runners, in pairs of two, leading to the individual valves and cylinders.
tom

 

Thanks

I will take a look and give it a shot..
I may have to try next week as I am tied up for a while ,,

I spoke to the owner of a repair garage and described the problem.
I told him my neighbor and his friend think it may be the ECM. He said it may be electrical and that over the last 5 yrs he probably only had to replace the ECM twice on vehicles..He was think fuses,,but my neighbor said the fused chdck out....

What are the chances it may be the ECM considering no codes are being returned when connected to a shop computer to read codes and I do not see a start engine light?

 

Hearing the fuel pump run & cutoff is a good sign & so is fuel squirting from the fuel rail schrader valve test port, rather than just dribbling out, BUT all that still isn't a proper fuel pressure or delivery rate over time test, so I'd get a proper KOEO & KOER fuel pressure & flow rate test done, before thinking about throwing parts at the problem, like a computer.

Take the time & trouble to do a proper trouble shoot, isolate/prove a problem, Then replace the part that has the problem.

 

we are outside at the truck.. is there a way to bypass the ecm to see if the engine starts?