1946 FORD 1 TON 5 HOLE WHEEL
#1
#2
Are you wanting front or rear hubs or both?
I think the front and rear hubs from the 48-early 51 F-2 trucks will interchange and has the common 8 lug. I'm not 100% sure of this, you will need to experiment. On the front I think you will need the bearings from the later truck along with the hub and they fit your spindle. On the rear I think the hubs interchange.
If you are changing the rear axle you can install a 9 inch to get the 5 lug and I think the 1/2 ton hubs and bearings go directly on your spindles. I think this would look wrong on a 1 ton truck.
Another possible option that nobody thinks of is to go the opposite direction in years. I think the wide 5 hubs and drums from 38-41 3/4 or 1 ton will swap on too.
Why do you want to change wheels? What is wrong with stock?
I think the front and rear hubs from the 48-early 51 F-2 trucks will interchange and has the common 8 lug. I'm not 100% sure of this, you will need to experiment. On the front I think you will need the bearings from the later truck along with the hub and they fit your spindle. On the rear I think the hubs interchange.
If you are changing the rear axle you can install a 9 inch to get the 5 lug and I think the 1/2 ton hubs and bearings go directly on your spindles. I think this would look wrong on a 1 ton truck.
Another possible option that nobody thinks of is to go the opposite direction in years. I think the wide 5 hubs and drums from 38-41 3/4 or 1 ton will swap on too.
Why do you want to change wheels? What is wrong with stock?
#3
#4
Your truck has 14" rear drums which a 16" wheel generally won't clear. I have heard a few guys claim they've found 16s that clear, but no one ever has given specifics of donor vehicles. Normally the drop center of a one piece 16" rim will hang up on your drums. To get around this you could swap out your rear brakes and hubs, or whole rear axle, for a '48 to early '51 F-2 axle that has 12" drums. Avoid late '51 and '52 because they moved the parking brake to the transmission. Or go all the way and swap in a Dana 60 from a '67 to '72 F-250 to improve the final drive ratio. Stu
#5
Your truck has 14" rear drums which a 16" wheel generally won't clear. I have heard a few guys claim they've found 16s that clear, but no one ever has given specifics of donor vehicles. Normally the drop center of a one piece 16" rim will hang up on your drums. To get around this you could swap out your rear brakes and hubs, or whole rear axle, for a '48 to early '51 F-2 axle that has 12" drums. Avoid late '51 and '52 because they moved the parking brake to the transmission. Or go all the way and swap in a Dana 60 from a '67 to '72 F-250 to improve the final drive ratio. Stu
#7
I am a huge fan of the jailbar era one ton trucks. Without a doubt, my favorite part of them is the 17", 5 on 6 7/8, multi-piece wheels with their stainless hub caps. Not too hard to find the 17" tires, new or used and at 34" diameter, helps the road gearing. They also fill up those big fender openings. Some of us here want your wheels, drums, hubcaps etc should you decide to swap out to something easier to deal with. Either way, welcome to the tonner club!
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#8
I am a huge fan of the jailbar era one ton trucks. Without a doubt, my favorite part of them is the 17", 5 on 6 7/8, multi-piece wheels with their stainless hub caps. Not too hard to find the 17" tires, new or used and at 34" diameter, helps the road gearing. They also fill up those big fender openings. Some of us here want your wheels, drums, hubcaps etc should you decide to swap out to something easier to deal with. Either way, welcome to the tonner club!
Not to hi-jack the thread but is there a upgraded brake solution that allows me to keep those original rims without modifying them? Or do I just rebuild the stock drums front and back?
#9
#10
You pulled your pickup bed to do rear spring bushings? Am I right that’s to drive out the front rear pins? Have you thought about the use of a puller, threaded into the grease zerk? Old discussion thread below. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
#11
A good brake job with well tuned brakes should stop the tuck just fine. The problem is well tune brakes should have the shoes arced into the drums and they are few if any places to get that done. It requires a brake shoe grinder, or thicker linings. Another issue is even having drums that are within service limits. Most vehicles have the number stamped in the drum, or cast in. A 14" drum would probably have a service limit around 14.090 or 14.100. I would guess that 80% of the 30s and 40s Fords I take apart have drums worn well past the service limits and basically junk. Even at the limit of 14.100, a replacement set of shoes is going to make a very small contact patch with the drum, unless ground in. Maybe you can find a good truck brake shop that can do this.
#12
You pulled your pickup bed to do rear spring bushings? Am I right that’s to drive out the front rear pins? Have you thought about the use of a puller, threaded into the grease zerk? Old discussion thread below. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tml?styleid=16
#13
#14
Willowbilly's 40-41 tonner panel has 8 lug front and rear. Maybe from an f-2 or f-3??? I'm sure it would have been a practical swap back when in commercial use and stuff getting hard to source.
#15
The rear axle is bolted in. The front axle is just chained in. It's springs do not line up with the frame mounts and the steering connection is different so it isn't hooked up either.
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