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Hey guys,
I've searched this and cannot find my answer.... I apologize if this question comes up all the time.... I have a '76 F-250 4x4, with the hubs in the attached photo, the passengers side works perfect but as you can see the red plastic is pretty banged up on the driver side, the red selector freewheels but is locked in 4WD. Can't get it to unlock no matter how much I turn the red selector, as it must be stripped inside. I want to get this fixed and am thinking of replacing them with Warn hubs, but am unsure of which ones will fit correctly. This shouldn't be that hard of a problem to solve, but I want to be sure before I buy them. From what I can tell I need the 63-77 Premium Hubs, 9072's .. am I correct? Thanks for your help
If it were me I would not spend the extra money on Warn hubs. You can get a set of milemarker hubs from summit racing for that axle for $86.00. Which is the way I will go when I get a set of hubs for my 73 highboy when I have the money. One of the spicers on my axle went out this winter. I just haven't fixed it yet. If you do get the milemarker hubs it's the 423's you need.
Do you have confidence in the Mile Marker product? I did some research and decided that I will spend the extra money and get the Warn 9072 hubs... I like the look of them better. I appreciate the suggestion either way!
Are they factory hubs or do they say some other name on them such as Warn?
Some aftermarket hubs can be 3/4 to a full turn. Whereas the factory hubs were typically a half turn or a little more at least for the ones that I’m more familiar with.
If you have the “external“ type that might be slightly different. I’m not as familiar with their action.
When you say the four-wheel-drive will not engage, you’re not speaking of the shifter inside the cab, are you?
You’re just talking about the locking mechanism in the hub not locking?
Are they factory hubs or do they say some other name on them such as Warn?
Some aftermarket hubs can be 3/4 to a full turn. Whereas the factory hubs were typically a half turn or a little more at least for the ones that I’m more familiar with.
If you have the “external“ type that might be slightly different. I’m not as familiar with their action.
When you say the four-wheel-drive will not engage, you’re not speaking of the shifter inside the cab, are you?
You’re just talking about the locking mechanism in the hub not locking?
The locking hubs say ford on the but I’m not sure they’re the right ones because when I tune the hub it still feels loose. An no the shifter work fine.
This is how the Shop Service manual describes engaged and disengaged.
Lock Position
When the transfer case is to be shifted
into the position for driving the front
axle, the pointer on the center bar of the
hub must point to the notch under the
word LOCK on the retaining plate. If the
clutch teeth do not engage with the ****
turned to this position, the clutch teeth
are butted and a slight movement of the
wheel in either direction will complete
the lock. The front axle will now drive the
wheels. Do not operate in four-wheel
drive with the hubs disengaged.
Free Running Position
When the transfer case is to be shifted
into the position for driving the rear axle
only, tum the pointer on the center bar
of the hub so it points to the notch under
the word FREE on the retaining plate.
This will disengage the clutch teeth and
thus unlock the wheel hubs from the axle
shafts. The wheels will turn freely on the
axles.
Be certain that the transfer case is
shifted into two-wheel drive position
before disengaging the free running hubs.
If difficulty is experienced in
disengagement of the free running hubs,
a slight movement of the vehicle in either
direction with the transfer case in 2 wheel
drive position, will reduce driveline wrapup
and ease disengagement.
This is the spicer service manual for your Hubs here.
Nice to see some old school Jackman rims. Now with that hub the red dial should turn in the arc of the arrow from Free to Lock. If it turn past the FREE and Lock, you have an internal lock in/out hub issue. Time to take it apart and see what is broke in there. They are very simple to take apart, you do not even have to jack the truck up or take the tire/rim off. As long as you only take the lock in/out parts off. Now if you plan on taking off the spindle nuts then YES you need to jack up the truck and take the tire and rim off.
Could be a piece broken, but it also could be just old tired and gummed up with old, tired grease and it’s not moving freely.
They are a service item after all, and most owners don’t service them. Or the front wheel bearings…
If you don’t know the history of the vehicle, then it’s time to take the **** off and look inside.
Back in the day I have seen hub lock outs and wheel bearing go 100,000 miles without anyone ever having looked inside and repacked the wheel bearings.
And that was even back when everybody knew about servicing wheelbearings, because sealed and permanently lubed unit bearings were not a thing back then.
The Spicer design factory hubs were a little strange and unintuitive the first time you pull them apart and look at them. But once you’ve done it, they are actually quite simple, straightforward, and strong.
They just need a little TLC now and then.
This is how the Shop Service manual describes engaged and disengaged.
This is the spicer service manual for your Hubs here.
ok. So I put the truck on jacks in the front an put the shifter in to four high. Then I checked the drive shaft from transfer case to front axle. It did not move freely which tells me it was engaged. Then I locked the hub lockers but the wheels would spin freely when in lock position. Now I’m thinking the spring may be to spongy for the lockers to engage to gears or could there be something else holding it back from making contact with the axle shaft
First make sure the other front tire isn’t simple turning in the opposite direction because of the open front diff. If it’s definitely not locking, pull the locking hubs off and inspect the internals. The most common issue is simply gunked up internals especially the large spring that pushes the two clutch hubs together when dial is turned to lock. It’s literally a 10 minute job to pull apart, clean and lube, then re-assemble.
Yes, don't go by the fact that you can spin a tire. An open differential will act like that. A limited-slip or locker will give you more feedback, but an open will likely just spin.
Instead of it not spinning the driveshaft, look behind both wheels when you turn them and see if the axle shafts and u-joints are spinning. If so, then the hub is at least partially locked and that lockout is at least partially working.
Do this with both. And even try turning the axle shaft by hand. Or better yet with some kind of prybar arrangement since spinning it with your fingers is difficult at best with the hub locked.
With the ***** in the unlock position you should be able to spin the u-joint with a finger unless things are just all gummed up all over.
If the **** on a particular side is just spinning or not feeling locked in or out when in the proper position, remove the six cap screws and see what's going on inside.
03-03-2011 | 09:04 PM
