Couple of ??
#17
I would probably suspect a bad alternator too, but the alternator may or may not keep the truck running. The BATTERIES are the electrical supply for the truck NOT the alternator. The alternator just keeps the batteries charged. You can easily overstress an alternator to the point of failure with repeated high amp loads. That's why your alternator doesn't kick on until AFTER the glowplugs kick off and why you should never use your alternator to charge dead batteries.
#18
#19
#20
I would probably suspect a bad alternator too, but the alternator may or may not keep the truck running. The BATTERIES are the electrical supply for the truck NOT the alternator. The alternator just keeps the batteries charged. You can easily overstress an alternator to the point of failure with repeated high amp loads. That's why your alternator doesn't kick on until AFTER the glowplugs kick off and why you should never use your alternator to charge dead batteries.
#21
I read both documents, but I'm telling you what many tech's have told me and what I've read on my voltage meter.....MY alternator does not "produce" until my GPCM kicks out the glow plugs. Never has. I can hear the fuel pump ramp up, see the fuel pressure jump up, and hear the motor change tone when it gets full juice.
The single alt. document is a little more "ambiguous" than the dual alt. document in that it doesn't explain PCM involvement as well if at all???
The single alt. document is a little more "ambiguous" than the dual alt. document in that it doesn't explain PCM involvement as well if at all???
#22
I've noticed it takes about 45 seconds to 60 seconds for the voltage
(read via ODBII w/Scangauge2) to jump from 11.6/11.8 to 13.9/14.1 Volts after the engine starts.
Could the lower voltage be a result of increased load rather than
the alternator isn't producing power? Somewhere, I thought it
was explained the fuel pump is pulling down the voltage @ startup?
A fuel pressure gauge is my next mod.
(read via ODBII w/Scangauge2) to jump from 11.6/11.8 to 13.9/14.1 Volts after the engine starts.
Could the lower voltage be a result of increased load rather than
the alternator isn't producing power? Somewhere, I thought it
was explained the fuel pump is pulling down the voltage @ startup?
A fuel pressure gauge is my next mod.
#23
#24
Personally I believe that the glow plugs draw enough current to draw down the voltage until they shut off. I've seen the same thing others have described, lower voltage until they shut off. But the descriptions and electrical diagrams are pretty clear that the alternator powers up with the key.
The single alternator wiring diagram is below. It basically says the same thing.
#25
Here is a bit more information that I looked up that might help. According to the 6.0L Bible, under the Glow Plug section, each Glow Plug should draw 10-12 amps. That's 80-96 amps just for Glow Plugs.
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_068.html
The stock alternator is 110 amps, as far as I know.
So not even considering the rest of the electrical draw on the truck, the stock alternator is near capacity just running the Glow Plugs.
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_068.html
The stock alternator is 110 amps, as far as I know.
So not even considering the rest of the electrical draw on the truck, the stock alternator is near capacity just running the Glow Plugs.
#26
ok so let me add to this.
the pcm does not controll the alternator. its controlled off the internal regulator.
the regulator will mot become active till the gpcm timer is off. do not mix up the gpcm timer for the gpcm light.
so far as amp draw on glowplugs that info is old and no longer part of the testing for a glowplug concern.
yes the glowplugs pull a crap load of juice. with a vat 40 I have seen 300 amp draws cranking a 6.0 over.
NEVER disconnect the batteries on a running engine to see if you have an alternator issue. the batteries act as a supressior to voltage spikes. A very easy way to kill a pcm, or any other module.
the pcm does not controll the alternator. its controlled off the internal regulator.
the regulator will mot become active till the gpcm timer is off. do not mix up the gpcm timer for the gpcm light.
so far as amp draw on glowplugs that info is old and no longer part of the testing for a glowplug concern.
yes the glowplugs pull a crap load of juice. with a vat 40 I have seen 300 amp draws cranking a 6.0 over.
NEVER disconnect the batteries on a running engine to see if you have an alternator issue. the batteries act as a supressior to voltage spikes. A very easy way to kill a pcm, or any other module.
#27
Here is a bit more information that I looked up that might help. According to the 6.0L Bible, under the Glow Plug section, each Glow Plug should draw 10-12 amps. That's 80-96 amps just for Glow Plugs.
Page 68: Electrical Components
The stock alternator is 110 amps, as far as I know.
So not even considering the rest of the electrical draw on the truck, the stock alternator is near capacity just running the Glow Plugs.
Page 68: Electrical Components
The stock alternator is 110 amps, as far as I know.
So not even considering the rest of the electrical draw on the truck, the stock alternator is near capacity just running the Glow Plugs.
#28
I understand that the alternator field is controlled by the voltage regulator built into the alternator.
What I don't understand is what provides the current to the "I" circuit to turn on the voltage regulator. According to the documentation, it's the HEC via the charging indicator light. According to what everyone else seems to say, it's the PCM.
What I don't understand is what provides the current to the "I" circuit to turn on the voltage regulator. According to the documentation, it's the HEC via the charging indicator light. According to what everyone else seems to say, it's the PCM.
#29
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#30
My lesson for the day. Thank you very much sir!!!!!!!