This weekend I started installing the pre-pump kit from Sinister Diesel. Thanks to the suggestions on this forum to drain the tank through the fuel bowl and use ratcheting straps around the tank to lower it; both made the process easy so far. I got as far as removing the fill and vent lines (which was a PIA) and disconnecting the front vent tube. The tank is lowered about 5" in the front and I'm trying to undo the fuel lines. I'm stuck. My truck is an 01 crewcab rwd with no lift.

The problem is I can't see what I'm doing when lying on my back and I can only get one arm up over the tank from the passenger side of the truck. I have the scissor type of fuel disconnect tool and I rented a long plastic tool from Autozone.





The long plastic tool won't work because I can't reach over the frame rail to pull from the driver's side of the truck. I've removed plenty of fuel filters over the years with the scissor style, but never while lying on my back, one-handed, unable to see the connection I'm working on.

Anyone have any tricks or tools they've used to disconnect the lines?

 

use the tool, in the first pic, and push it into the line. Theres "flanges" on the inside of the fuel coupling line, that will expand, and pop the line off the sending unit. With the tank down that far, you should be able to access the lines from the side of truck, if not, lower the tank some more.

 

I haven't done any work on the tank, but maybe there's some help here: Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

 

Thanks, I've seen Guzzle's site. It just occurred to me that the tank might be held up on the fill and vent lines. I'll shove some rags in them and push them over the frame rail, then see if the tank will drop more. Any chance I'll ruin the fuel lines by pulling the tank down too far? Unfortunately I caught a cold last night and might have to wait a few days before I get back to this.

 

When I dropped my tank I took the drive shaft off to get me some room. I also have a straight pipe so the muffler wasn't in the way. Hope this helps!

 

Just don't drop it down too far. There should have about 8" of slack in the lines and wires to lower it down. Then you can get to the fuel lines and fuel sender connector between the bottom of frame rail and top of tank.

 

Many thanks. I got the tank dropped in about half an hour and changed out the internals in about another half an hour last night. Looks like getting the lock ring back on is going to be difficult. Here are some pics of the tank in case they help anyone else in the future. I was able to reach in between the tank and frame rail with the metal release tool and undo the fittings in just a couple of minutes. You can see on my stock crew cab that the tank is almost on the ground. The electrical fitting disconnects on the frame rail not at the tank. Stick a small screwdriver above the tab in the fitting (mine faced the rear of the truck) push down and pull apart the fitting at the same time. Mine was full of dirt, but once I blew that out I got it apart now problem.

 

Use a hair dryer to heat up the locking ring. Turn it backwards (CCW) until you can feel it settle in and then try to tighten it (CW).

Before I loosened the ring I made opposing marks on the ring and the tank as index marks for when I put it back on.
Went back on no problem.

 

When i did mine, I lowered the tank several inches.
I sat in front of the tires and between the frame and outer body of the bed. Using a flash light to see, i reached over the frame with the scissor tool, slid it in position then aggressively pushed and pulled at the joint. They each popped loose in a number of seconds.

I know you are beyond this already, i just wanted to share.

I had no problem with my large ring. It went right in place.

 

I need to get this mod done.. thanks for the pics.. Man am I kicking myself in the butt for not thinking of doing this while they had my bed off to replace it last winter

 

This remindes me that I need to get my tank dropped be for winter really hits. Great info and pics. How is the setup working for you?

 

Hey BK, how did you get all the fuel out of the tank???

 

One key trick to removing the fuel lines with quick disconnect tools is to push the line towards the tool, then when you put the tool in you can pull the line off of the flanged tube. By pushing it you release the tension on the inner lock, now the tool will disengage it easily. I have heard many people struggle with them, by trying to jam the tool in to release the lock.


Also like Robin mentions, mark the tank where the threads start then mark the ring at the same point. I think it only took a minute with no heat to get the ring on when I did it. Lots of even pressure helps out too!

 

I just drove mine till it was close to empty, just 3 or 4 gallons left when I dropped it (if it runs that is).

 

To empty the tank, I connected a 3/8 hose to the fuel bowl drain tube and opened the drain into a 5 gallon bucket. I used some old speaker wire with alligator clips crimped on one end. The clips connected to the pos and neg at the fuel pump on the frame rail and then I pressed the other ends to the battery terminals. It took about 15 minutes to drain the 5 gallons left in the tank. Once I saw air in the fuel I took the wire off the battery and closed the fuel bowl drain.

Instead of a hair dryer, I boiled some water in a tea kettle and then poured it over the ring in a metal pot. Left it in long enough to throw on my shoes and then, with gloves on, pulled it out and took it to the tank. Lined up the start of the threads by eye and it went on in a matter of seconds. Amazing what a difference heating it made. Tomorrow I hope to button everything back together.

Brian