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Edit: I just now saw the post that you'd made, I must've posted at the same time as you.
And I just came across your edit.
Yeah, this can be a problem in forums like this where people can go edit their previous posts but you have no idea if people are actually aware of that....
Originally Posted by gibygreen
...but I do know from just looking that the EEC is an A9P unit...Tomorrow I'll pull out the computer and wiring to get a better look at everything.
Once again, just to be clear, the three-character strategy designations describe only the computer's programming and are pretty much useless to figure out what pins you have and what needs to be connected to what... you need the part numbers that Chop described in order to determine that, so, yes, once again, pull your computer and look at it closely.
I would personally be most comfortable if you could find some MSD docs that are based on some identifying numbers located on your distributor and aren't based only on how it looks.
Originally Posted by gibygreen
I'm extremely pleased to be recieving this level of help from you guys, truly, I used to post problems I had all the time on Allfordmustangs with my 67' and recieved nothing even close to this.
Thank you for that comment! We have some really good guys here, and their being here is the primary reason why I joined FTE in the first place... I have learned a LOT from everybody here, and some of it from people whom one wouldn't think would know the stuff that they do.
I know of two people who hang out mostly in 87-96 we might be able to ping later on if necessary but so far we're just in the investigation phase and they'd likely come back saying what everybody else is saying - go look at what you have and what the PO did....
Alright, so I'll post some pictures, first then get on with the information i got today.
Under the hood.
Jumbled up mess, with two plugs not plugged in, far left and far right. Far left is the extra ECT plug i mentioned
MAP/Baro sensor on the firewall, I'm not sure if the part number is of any use.
the f450, please disregard the rollbar, it's coming off.
Computer label with part number and computer denotation.
Jumbled up wires and hanging sensors under the dash.
What is this box? It's up under the dash a good amount.
My findings regarding the wires on the 60-pin connector. A check denotes that the wire was the same as what was in the truck, and X means it was something different, which i've put the color of the wire off to the side. At any rate, all of the connections and wires seemed to be in fairly good condition, though one of the grounds that is connected the dash next the computer has had it's casing stripped of of it. Though I don't think that wire came from the EEC
Hope this is of some use, I'm just not sure if this table is correct. The wiring diagrams I looked at in some cases have different colors for the same year mustang. Also, the truck does have two o2 sensor, both are hooked up. But, the right side's plug is slightly melted, but the connections don't look damaged. They actually managed to use the foxbody exhaust system which is pretty interesting because the exhaust exits out the side of the bed. I should've taken a picture while i was underneath.
EDIT: I almost forgot! the P/N on the MSD dizzy is 8456 which is the one i sent last night off of MSD's website.
I also found this while I was looking, it seems like most of wires that are wrong on the table are actually the correct color wiring according to this: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...ng_Diagram.gif
I googled "e9zf c2a" (numbers from your computer, the 12A650 is the Basic number and is common across all computers) and a bunch of results for Mustang MAF conversions came back... wow.
Looked at the first one, it contained a reference to fordfuel injection.com, that site was unfortunately shut down BUT the content is still available via the wayback machine... here is a link to the page describing computers (linked to in that site I looked at):
It unfortunately doesn't seem to contain your C2A variant BUT looking further down in that thread says that OR some other OR yet some other were all used in auto-trans configurations. But who knows if that information is correct or not.
I have no idea what that box is way under the dash, find the numbers on it; it doesn't *look like* an 80-86 vintage, those connectors resemble something I have in my 90s Taurii.
As for the wire colors, that unused connector on the right under the hood, the miscellaneous relays & boxes & such, you're seeing why a factory EVTM for the car the computer & harness are from would be most helpful....
OK, I see you edited your post while I am still composing mine, you gave a link to veryuseful.com (or some such) showing a diagram that matches your wire colors... great! It says it pertains to 1988-91 vehicle, possibly it's accurate. See if you can find that RH-side unused connector on it, your picture looks like it contains a single, yellow wire, it would make more sense in my mind if it contained two yellow/green-stripe wires which in my mind would be for the SPOUT (spark output) connector but I'm not aware of a single-wire connector in that area.
Looking at the pictures, it actually looks like the guy did a fairly decent job, I was envisioning household lamp-cord wiring & wire nuts & masking tape (you'd maybe be surprised at some of the crap that people do).
Alright, you say that MSD page is the one for YOUR distributor... go read the instructions & addendum linked there and see what you can learn....
Boy, dude, you picked one helluva welcome to EFI....
The mystery box looks like the speed control module for the vacuum speed control. The mess under the dash looks like the original EEC connector is still there. E9ZF-C2A is, as Chris pointed out, an 1989 Mustang computer. It is a Sequential Injection Mass Air system.
On the dangling plugs on the engine, does the one that looks like an injector connection near the distributor have yellow/light green wires? If it does that is the SPOUT and with the plug removed the timing is locked. The problem comes in finding which were the original 1986 EFI wires and which are the 1989 Mustang wires. I personally would have simply used the old stuff where it matched and the new stuff where it didn't and removed the no longer used pieces to prevent confusion. What looks like an extra ECT, might have been the TPS connector or EGR position sensor from the 1986 stuff. If you want I can send you (with an email address) the 1986 EEC section from the 1986 EVTM, or maybe if Gary Lewis has it where you can download it go that way. Start at the old EEC plug, and check the various circuits so you can eliminate the stuff that no longer has a function. For now, just tape them up so you don't use them. I can get you the 1989 Mustang wiring diagrams if you need them. I will be gone for a while to meet my cousins from Maryland for dinner.
Bill - I haven't allowed people to download the documentation for fear of getting sued. I think we are on thin ice enough posting the stuff, but allowing them to download it would be a red flag to those selling the documents.
Having said that, I did a teeny bit of work on each and every page. I cropped each page, then straightened it, and finally enhanced it by using what's called an "unsharp mask" in Photoshop. And, in many cases I used an eraser tool to take out extraneous lines, etc. That cleaned things up significantly. But, it also increased the file size to about 1 Mb per page. So, the total of 155 pages will take up in excess of 150 Mb, and isn't easily emailed. But, I can put it up where you can get to it, and then what you do with it is up to you.
Hey guys.. interesting project you got going here. I don't know how useful wire colors are gonna be here, I suspect the OP is gonna have to pull the upper intake off and electrically trace(buzz out) everything back to the PCM connector to know for sure if everything is in the right place. That sounds tedious but it really shouldn't take too long.
Hey everyone, I finished trying to make sure all the wiring harness was hooked up correctly and all the correct wiring lead to it's proper places. As far as I can tell, it seems to. So, I plugged the EEC back up and put everything back. Since I took off the throttle body last night it and it seemed so wore out with all the shaft play, I figured i'd need a new one. But, dad suggested that I tried disassembling it and trying to get it working a little better. So, I polished everything in it, tightened everything and replaced all the o-rings along with adding some lube to everything. It turned out better than I thought it would with little to no play. I also tested the IAC sensor to make sure it was working, and it was. So I put everything back on.
Also, yes ctubutis you were right, that small little plug turned out to be the SPOUT which didn't have it's plug in it. So, I rigged up a paper-clip to act as a jumper for it. After getting everything back on and sorted out. The truck runs significantly better, it doesn't die near as easy while putting it in gear, revvs more freely, and after a short drive pulls much harder than before. Significantly faster to 60 than it was. But there still seems to be a problem. It's still whistling. Louder than before actually, and since it's gotten louder every time i've plugged a vacuum leak, I think it's the MAF sensor housing. The cast aluminum little thingy. I think that's what the noise is, so sometime soon I'm going to pull it off and see if I can't polish it up like I did the TB. For now, I'm about to head to the track. Season opening is tonight!
I looked a bit at the MSD-provided PDFs, man, they're terrifically disappointing - basically, telling you only how to physically install the thing, no technical information whatsoever.
~~
The best I can find about your computer is that it's from a 1989 Mustang 5.0L, automatic transmission, 49-state emissions.
Not entirely authoritative & credible but it's the best I've been able to find.
~~
The "cutting out" at high RPMs initially sounds electrical/ignition but it occurs to me... I wonder if you have a fuel delivery system that can support it. As built, trucks from the factory were made to get heavy loads moving, not to be high-RPM screamers. If you are still using the factory fuel pump(s) they may not have the ability to adequately deliver at those RPMs.
I do not think I can help much but here is what I have on the 5.0L Mustang.
Electronic Engine Control (5.0L)
How The Circuit Works
The Electronic Engine Control System uses an Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Module to control fuel flow, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), ignition system functions, evaporative emission, idle speed, A/C cutout, engine cooling and air management.
Fuel Flow
Fuel injectors, mounted in the intake manifold at the intake port, meter the flow of fuel into the engine. The EEC Module fires the injectors.
Fuel is supplied to the engine by an in-tank Electric Fuel Pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned to the RUN position, voltage is applied to the Fuel Pump Relay Coil. The Coil is grounded by the EEC Module and the relay contacts close. Voltage is now applied to the Fuel Pump.
When the Fuel Pump Relay is grounded by the EEC Module and the Inertia Switch is closed, power is supplied to the Fuel Pump. Fuel flow is produced by the Fuel Pump, and fuel pressure is built up in the fuel delivery system. Fuel Pressure is controlled by a fuel pressure regulator.
NOTE :If the engine does not operate after a collision, it may be that the Inertia Switch has opened. To reset the switch, put your finger through the hole in front of the trunk trim line and push down on the plunger.
WARNING :
If you see or smell gasoline, do not reset the Inertia Switch.
Ignition
The EEC Module receives engine crankshaft position and engine rpm information from the TFI Ignition Module through the PIP signal line (circuit 395). Using this information and other information received from various sensors, the EEC Module controls ignition timing through the spark output (SPOUT) signal (circuit 929). The SPOUT signal informs the TFI Ignition Module when to collapse the ground on the primary circuit to allow the secondary circuit to fire the spark plugs.
Idle Air Bypass Valve
The Idle Air Bypass Valve controls engine idle speed by regulating the amount of air allowed to pass around the throttle plates. This permits the EEC Module to make idle speed corrections to prevent engine stall during cold engine warm ups as an engine load changes.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
The EGR System cools down the combustion chambers in the engine to reduce the oxides of nitrogen emitted to the atmosphere. The EEC Module controls the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid, which is normally closed.
When the Solenoid is energized, vacuum flows through the solenoid valve to the EGR valve. With vacuum applied to the EGR valve, the pintle opens and exhaust gas recirculates from the exhaust system back into the intake manifold.
The EGR Valve Position Sensor indicates valve position to the EEC Module by providing a voltage signal proportional to the EGR valve position. The EEC Module determines correct EGR valve position depending on engine operating conditions.
Canister Purge
The carbon canister collects fuel vapors from the fuel tank and stores them to be burned later in the engine. The EEC Module controls the Canister Purge Solenoid and grounds the solenoid, releasing fuel vapors to be burned in the engine.
Thermactor Air Injection System
The Thermactor Air Injection System reduces the hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide content of the engine's exhaust gases. The system accomplishes this by pumping fresh air into the exhaust system, when necessary. The fresh air mixes with the hot exhaust gases, causing unburned fuel to burn.
Thermactor Air can be injected into the exhaust manifolds, into the catalytic converter or vented to the atmosphere, depending on engine conditions sensed by the EEC Module.
During engine warm up, both the Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid and the Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid are energized. With both Solenoids energized, fresh air is pumped into the exhaust manifolds and unburned fuel burns in the exhaust pipes leading to the catalytic converter. This causes the converter to warm up quickly.
After the engine warms up, the Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid is deenergized. With the Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid energized and the Diverter Solenoid deenergized, fresh air is pumped into the catalytic converter.
Under some conditions both Solenoids are deenergized and air is not injected into the exhaust system. Instead, it is vented to the atmosphere.
Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Module Inputs
Various input devices determine engine operating conditions. The following inputs signal the EEC Module with specific information:
The Throttle Position Sensor is a potentiometer. The Sensor output is a DC voltage that varies with throttle plate angle. By monitoring the Throttle Position Sensor output, the EEC Module calculates fuel delivery requirements based on driver demand.
The Barometric Absolute Pressure (BAP) Sensor signals barometric pressure conditions (changes in altitude) with ignition key on and engine off, and updates this information during wide-open throttle conditions.
The A/C Signal is received from the A/C system and informs the EEC Module when the A/C clutch has been turned on. During periods of wide-open throttle acceleration, the A/C signal informs the EEC Module that the A/C Compressor must be turned off.
The Air Charge Temperature (ACT) Sensor is a thermistor in which resistance decreases as manifold air temperature increases (Negative Temperature Coefficient or NTC). The EEC Module detects the voltage drop across the Air Charge Temperature (ACT) Sensor and uses this information to help calculate fuel delivery.
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor measures the amount of air flowing into the intake manifold. The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor uses a thermistor to measure air temperature. The EEC Module detects the voltage drop across the thermistor as air passes around it and uses this information to calculate fuel delivery, spark timing and EGR control.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a thermistor in which resistance decreases as engine coolant temperature decreases.
The EEC Module detects the voltage drop across the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor and uses this information to help calculate fuel delivery, spark timing and EGR control.
03-26-2016 | 11:03 AM
